Plant care
Ruby Necklace (String of Rubies) care
Othonna capensis
Also called Ruby Necklace, String of Rubies, Little Pickles, Trailing Othonna, Cape Aster.
Watering rhythm
1-3weeks
Roughly every 1-3 weeks; let the soil dry out completely between waterings
Light
Bright indirect light (just back from a sunny window)
Soil
Free-draining cactus and succulent mix with heavy mineral grit
Humidity
Average to low (around 30-50 percent)
Temp
18-27 C (keep above ~10 C; hardy to about -1 C)
Pet safety
Mildly toxic to pets
Mature size
Trailing stems reach about 30-60 cm (1-2 ft) long
Care at a glance
Light
Ruby Necklace is what florists mean by "bright spot, no direct sun" — close enough to a south or east window to feel the brightness, with a sheer curtain or a few feet of distance keeping the sun off the leaves. Wants the brightest spot you can give it: a south- or west-facing window, ideally with a few hours of gentle direct sun. The more light it gets, the deeper the stems and bean-like leaves flush ruby-purple; in low light they stay green and the trailing stems stretch and grow leggy. Outdoors it takes full sun once acclimatised. A phone lux-meter at the leaf surface should read 1,500-3,000 lux at noon.
Watering
Water ruby necklace roughly every 1-3 weeks; let the soil dry out completely between waterings. The actual day count varies with pot size, light, and season — the finger test (or lifting the pot to feel its weight) is more reliable than a fixed calendar. Empty any drainage saucer afterwards so the pot isn't sitting in water. Treat it as a true succulent and water with the soak-and-dry method: drench thoroughly, let all excess drain, then wait until the mix is bone dry before watering again. Water more in spring and summer growth, much less in winter. The leaves plump up when hydrated and soften slightly when thirsty. Overwatering is the number-one killer, causing mushy, translucent stems and root rot.
Soil and pot
Ruby Necklace grows best in free-draining cactus and succulent mix with heavy mineral grit. Use a gritty, sharply draining medium: roughly 1 part succulent or cactus soil to 1 part mineral grit such as pumice, perlite or coarse sand (around 50-70 percent grit). This keeps moisture from lingering around the fine roots. Always pot into a container with drainage holes; terracotta helps wick excess moisture and guards against rot. A pot with a working drainage hole is non-negotiable for this species — even free-draining mix will turn soggy in a closed planter. If you love the look of a decorative pot without a hole, use it as a cachepot around an inner nursery pot you can lift out to water.
Humidity and temperature
Ruby Necklace sits happiest at around Average to low (around 30-50 percent) humidity and 18-27 C (keep above ~10 C; hardy to about -1 C) (65-80 F (keep above ~50 F; hardy to about 30 F)). As an arid-adapted South African succulent it actively prefers dry household air and needs no misting or humidity trays. High humidity combined with poor airflow encourages stem rot and fungal problems, so good ventilation matters more than added moisture. If you keep the room above 18 year-round and avoid placing the plant near a cold draught, a hot radiator, or an air-conditioning vent, you have already handled the two biggest indoor stressors.
Fertilising
Feed ruby necklace sparingly. Light feeder. Apply a balanced succulent or cactus fertiliser diluted to half strength once or twice during the spring and summer growing season. Do not feed in autumn or winter when growth naturally slows. Over-fertilising produces weak, stretched growth and dulls the prized red colouration. Skip fertiliser entirely on a stressed, recently-repotted, or actively wilting plant — fertiliser salts make damage worse, not better. Wait for a round of healthy new growth before resuming a feeding rhythm.
Common problems
Below are the issues we see most often on ruby necklace in the Growli community. Each is annotated with the most common cause so you know where to start.
- Mushy, translucent stems / root rot — The most common problem, caused by overwatering or soil that holds moisture. Let the mix dry out fully between waterings, use a gritty fast-draining medium and a pot with drainage holes, and cut back hard on water in winter.
- Leggy, stretched stems with green (not red) leaves — A sign of too little light (etiolation). Move it to the brightest window or add a grow light. Stronger light tightens growth and brings out the signature ruby-purple colour.
- Shrivelled, deflating leaves — Usually underwatering or roots damaged by previous rot. If the soil is bone dry, give a thorough soak; if it has stayed wet, check the roots for rot instead of adding more water.
- Loss of red colour — Stems revert to plain green in low light or with too much fertiliser. The red is a mild stress response, so brighter light, cooler nights and lean feeding restore it.
- Mealybugs and aphids — Cottony white tufts in leaf joints (mealybugs) or clusters on new growth and flower stalks (aphids). Wipe off with a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol or treat with insecticidal soap, and isolate the plant until clear.
- Bare, sparse stems over time — Older trailing stems naturally drop lower leaves and look thin. Trim them back to encourage bushier branching and replant the cuttings into the same pot to fill it out.
Propagation
Very easy from stem cuttings. Snip a healthy length of stem, let the cut end callus for a day or two, then lay it on or shallowly insert it into gritty succulent mix. Keep barely moist and roots typically form within a couple of weeks. It also propagates from individual leaves and by simply pinning trailing stems onto soil, where they root at the nodes. Propagation is the cheapest, most satisfying way to expand a collection — and it doubles as insurance against losing a mature plant to an accident. Take a backup cutting once the parent is established and healthy.
Toxicity to pets
Ruby Necklace is mildly toxic to pets. Othonna capensis (syn. Crassothonna capensis) is NOT individually listed in the ASPCA toxic or non-toxic plant database, and the genus has no ASPCA-listed members to confirm it is safe. Because it belongs to the same daisy tribe (Senecioneae, Asteraceae) as Senecio species such as string of pearls, which the ASPCA lists as toxic to cats and dogs, treat it as potentially mildly toxic, keep it out of reach of pets and children, and verify with your vet before assuming it is safe. Ingestion may cause mild stomach upset such as vomiting or drooling. If you keep cats, dogs, or curious children in the house, weigh placement carefully — a high shelf or a hanging planter is enough for casual safety. For severe ingestion incidents, call your local vet and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (in the US, 888-426-4435).
Pet-safety status is sourced from the ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plant List, which catalogues the most-asked-about plants for cats, dogs, and horses.
Ruby Necklace care — frequently asked questions
What is the common name for Othonna capensis?
Othonna capensis is most commonly called Ruby Necklace, but it is also known as Ruby Necklace, String of Rubies, Little Pickles, Trailing Othonna, Cape Aster. The names refer to the same species, so care instructions for Ruby Necklace apply identically to anything sold as String of Rubies.
How much light does ruby necklace need?
Ruby Necklace grows best in bright indirect light (just back from a sunny window). Wants the brightest spot you can give it: a south- or west-facing window, ideally with a few hours of gentle direct sun. The more light it gets, the deeper the stems and bean-like leaves flush ruby-purple; in low light they stay green and the trailing stems stretch and grow leggy. Outdoors it takes full sun once acclimatised.
How often should I water ruby necklace?
Water ruby necklace roughly every 1-3 weeks; let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Treat it as a true succulent and water with the soak-and-dry method: drench thoroughly, let all excess drain, then wait until the mix is bone dry before watering again. Water more in spring and summer growth, much less in winter. The leaves plump up when hydrated and soften slightly when thirsty. Overwatering is the number-one killer, causing mushy, translucent stems and root rot. The finger-test (or lifting the pot to feel its weight) beats a fixed weekly calendar because pot size, light, and season all change how fast the soil dries.
Is ruby necklace toxic to cats and dogs?
Ruby Necklace is mildly toxic to pets. Othonna capensis (syn. Crassothonna capensis) is NOT individually listed in the ASPCA toxic or non-toxic plant database, and the genus has no ASPCA-listed members to confirm it is safe. Because it belongs to the same daisy tribe (Senecioneae, Asteraceae) as Senecio species such as string of pearls, which the ASPCA lists as toxic to cats and dogs, treat it as potentially mildly toxic, keep it out of reach of pets and children, and verify with your vet before assuming it is safe. Ingestion may cause mild stomach upset such as vomiting or drooling.
What USDA hardiness zone does ruby necklace grow in?
Ruby Necklace is rated for USDA zone USDA 9b-11 (frost-tender; grow as a houseplant or move indoors below ~50 F / 10 C). Outside that range, grow it as a container plant that overwinters indoors before the first hard frost.
Ruby Necklace deep-dive guides
Every aspect of ruby necklace care, each with its own calibrated guide:
- Ruby Necklace watering schedule
- Ruby Necklace light requirements
- Best soil mix for ruby necklace
- Ruby Necklace fertilizing guide
- When to repot ruby necklace
- How to propagate ruby necklace
- Ruby Necklace growth rate & size
- Ruby Necklace cold hardiness
- Ruby Necklace temperature & humidity
- Is ruby necklace toxic to cats & dogs?
Related guides
Ruby Necklace is also known as Ruby Necklace, String of Rubies, Little Pickles, Trailing Othonna, and Cape Aster.