Growli

Plant diagnosis

Diagnose your plant — pick a plant, pick a symptom.

Yellow leaves, drooping, brown spots, mushy stem, curling leaves, or stalled growth — the cause and the fix depend on the species. Pick your plant below for a guide written for that exact combination.

Common symptoms

Each symptom links to the full umbrella guide. Pick a plant card further down for species-specific advice.

Yellow leaves

Yellowing foliage (chlorosis) is the single most common houseplant complaint. It almost always points back to water, light, or nutrient balance.

Curling leaves

Curling leaves are a plant's way of reducing surface area to conserve water or shield itself. The direction of the curl tells you what's wrong.

Drooping

A drooping or wilting plant is losing turgor pressure in its stems. The cause is either too much water (rotting roots can't pull) or not enough.

Brown spots

Brown spots can mean fungal disease, sunburn, mineral burn from tap water, or localised rot. The pattern and texture tell you which one.

Mushy stem

A soft, mushy or blackened stem is advanced rot. Caught early it can sometimes be salvaged via propagation; left alone it collapses the plant.

No new growth

A plant that has stalled for weeks during its normal growing season is either dormant, root-bound, light-starved, or quietly failing at the roots.

Brown leaf tips

Crispy brown leaf tips are a moisture-delivery problem: dry air, mineral-heavy tap water, salt buildup, or roots that can't keep up. The rest of the leaf usually stays healthy.

Dropping leaves

Sudden leaf drop is a stress response — a change in light, temperature, or watering rhythm. Gradual lower-leaf drop is often just ageing. The pattern and speed tell you which.

Leggy, stretched growth

Long bare stems with sparse, small leaves mean the plant is stretching toward light it isn't getting (etiolation) — or it has simply never been pinched back.

Root rot

Root rot is the end-stage of overwatering or poor drainage: roots suffocate, turn brown and mushy, and the plant wilts even in wet soil. Caught early, most plants can be saved.

Houseplants

Monstera

10 guides

Monstera deliciosa

Climbing aroid from Central America — wants bright indirect light, chunky aroid soil, and a moss pole to fenestrate.

Peace lily

10 guides

Spathiphyllum wallisii

Shade-loving aroid that wilts theatrically the moment it gets thirsty — also the clearest "water me" signaler in the houseplant world.

Dracaena

9 guides

Dracaena fragrans / marginata

Cane-stemmed tropical that grows like a slow palm tree — sensitive to fluoride and chlorine in tap water.

Calathea

10 guides

Calathea (Goeppertia) spp.

Drama queen of the Marantaceae — patterned leaves, paranoid about tap water, hard fan of 60%+ humidity.

Boston fern

9 guides

Nephrolepis exaltata

Lush tropical fern that lives and dies by humidity — the first plant to crisp up in dry indoor air or after a missed watering.

Croton

9 guides

Codiaeum variegatum

Tropical shrub grown for its electric foliage — drops leaves at the slightest chill, draft, or move.

Anthurium

10 guides

Anthurium andraeanum

Glossy-leaved tropical aroid with lacquered red spathes — loves warmth, humidity, and a chunky, fast-draining mix.

Alocasia

10 guides

Alocasia amazonica

Dramatic tropical aroid with arrow-shaped leaves — thirsty, humidity-hungry, and quick to drop into a dormancy sulk.

Hoya

10 guides

Hoya carnosa

Waxy-leaved trailing epiphyte that stores water in its leaves — thrives on bright light and benign neglect.

Money tree

9 guides

Pachira aquatica

Braided-trunk tropical tree — tougher than it looks, but its trunk softens and rots fast if the soil stays wet.

Yucca

9 guides

Yucca elephantipes

Sculptural drought-tolerant cane — wants strong light and dry soil, and sulks or rots in damp, dim corners.

Begonia

10 guides

Begonia rex

Grown for its painterly leaves — loves warmth and humidity but resents soggy soil and is prone to powdery mildew in stagnant air.

Areca palm

9 guides

Dypsis lutescens

Feathery indoor palm — wants steady moisture, humidity, and filtered water; its fronds brown at the tips in dry or hard-water conditions.

Orchid

9 guides

Phalaenopsis amabilis

Epiphytic moth orchid — grows in bark, not soil, and rots fast if its crown or roots are left sitting wet.

Cactus

10 guides

Cactaceae

Desert succulent built for drought and blazing light — almost always killed by overwatering, not by neglect.

Majesty palm

10 guides

Ravenea rivularis

A river-bank palm sold as a living-room plant — it wants far more water, light, and humidity than most homes give it, and brown tips are its trademark complaint.

Kentia palm

10 guides

Howea forsteriana

The most forgiving indoor palm — tolerates lower light and drier air than any other palm, and most problems trace back to overwatering it out of kindness.

Cat palm

10 guides

Chamaedorea cataractarum

A bushy clumping palm that drinks fast and browns at the tips the moment air or soil runs dry — spider mites love it in winter-heated rooms.

Sago palm

9 guides

Cycas revoluta

Not a palm at all but an ancient cycad — it grows one flush of fronds a year, so every yellowing frond matters and patience is part of the care plan.

Norfolk Island pine

9 guides

Araucaria heterophylla

A subtropical conifer, not a true pine — dry indoor air browns its lower branches, and a branch once dropped never grows back, so prevention beats cure.

Asparagus fern

10 guides

Asparagus setaceus

A feathery lily relative (not a true fern) that yellows and sheds needles fast when it dries out — but regrows just as fast from its tuberous roots.

Staghorn fern

10 guides

Platycerium bifurcatum

An epiphyte that grows on trees, not in pots — the flat brown shield fronds are meant to be there, and most losses come from watering the crown into rot.

String of hearts

10 guides

Ceropegia woodii

A trailing semi-succulent with heart-shaped leaves on threadlike vines — it wants more light than most trailing plants and less water than it is usually given.

Burro's tail

10 guides

Sedum morganianum

A trailing sedum whose plump leaves drop at the lightest touch — leaf shed near the soil usually means water trouble, while shed from handling is just its nature.

Kalanchoe

10 guides

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana

A flowering succulent that blooms on short winter days — yellowing and mush almost always mean too much water, and no rebloom means too much evening light.

Poinsettia

10 guides

Euphorbia pulcherrima

The Christmas euphorbia — it drops leaves at cold draughts, soggy soil, and the shock of coming home from the shop, usually in that order.

Cyclamen

10 guides

Cyclamen persicum

A cool-room winter bloomer that grows from a tuber — it wilts fast when thirsty, rots fast when the tuber is watered directly, and sleeps through summer on purpose.

Gardenia

9 guides

Gardenia jasminoides

Famously fussy — gardenias yellow at hard water and alkaline soil, drop buds at every temperature swing, and reward exactly-right care with unmatched fragrance.

Jasmine

9 guides

Jasminum polyanthum

A vigorous twining climber that flowers on cool, bright winter windowsills — yellowing usually means wet feet, and no flowers usually means a too-warm autumn.

Hibiscus

9 guides

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis

A tropical shrub that flowers on new growth — it yellows and drops leaves at drought, draughts, and moves, and aphids adore its soft flower buds.

Oxalis

10 guides

Oxalis triangularis

The purple shamrock grows from tiny bulbs and folds its leaves nightly — total collapse is often just its natural dormancy, cured by a rest, not more water.

Air plant

8 guides

Tillandsia (various)

Soil-free bromeliads that drink through their leaves — under-soaking browns the tips, and water trapped in the rosette after soaking rots the base.

Venus flytrap

10 guides

Dionaea muscipula

A carnivorous bog plant — tap water minerals poison it within weeks, full sun is non-negotiable, and its winter blackening is dormancy, not death.

Geranium

10 guides

Pelargonium × hortorum

Window-box pelargoniums are sun-and-air plants — yellow lower leaves mean wet soil, leggy growth means a dim corner, and blackened stem bases mean rot has won.

Zebra plant

10 guides

Aphelandra squarrosa

Striking white-veined foliage with diva demands — one missed watering and it drops its lower leaves; dry air crisps the edges of the rest.

Amaryllis

10 guides

Hippeastrum hybrids

A giant flowering bulb on an annual cycle — bloom, leafy recharge, then a dry dormant rest. Most "problems" are just a stage of the cycle misread.

Bonsai (indoor)

9 guides

Ficus retusa and other species

Tiny pots dry out in hours, not days — most indoor bonsai losses are drought in miniature, and most leaf drop is the tree objecting to a new location.

Desert rose

10 guides

Adenium obesum

A swollen-trunked flowering succulent — the caudex should always be firm; any softness at the base is rot, and winter leaf drop in a cool room is normal.

Baby's tears

10 guides

Soleirolia soleirolii

A moss-like carpet of tiny leaves that wilts within hours of drying — dramatic collapses usually revive after a soak, but brown patches don't regrow.

Ming aralia

9 guides

Polyscias fruticosa

An elegant, ferny indoor tree that hates change — moves, draughts, and repots all trigger leaf shed, but it re-leafs reliably once left in peace.

Corn plant

10 guides

Dracaena fragrans

The classic office dracaena — brown leaf tips from fluoridated tap water are so common they're practically part of the plant's description. Filtered water fixes it.

Dragon tree

10 guides

Dracaena marginata

A spiky, near-indestructible dracaena — it sheds old lower leaves naturally as it grows its cane, but brown tips point at tap-water fluoride.

Hens and chicks

10 guides

Sempervivum tectorum

Hardy rosette succulents that multiply by offsets — a rosette that flowers then dies is completing its natural cycle; the chicks around it carry on.

Aeonium

10 guides

Aeonium arboreum

A winter-growing succulent that does everything backwards — it drops leaves and closes its rosettes in summer heat on purpose, then grows through the cool months.

Lithops

6 guides

Lithops (living stones)

Living stones follow a strict annual rhythm — they must consume their old leaf pair while splitting, and a single wrong-season watering can burst them.

Caladium

10 guides

Caladium bicolor

Paper-thin painted leaves from a tuber that sleeps half the year — autumn dieback is the plan, not a problem; store the tuber dry and warm until spring.

Coleus

10 guides

Coleus scutellarioides

Grown for wildly painted leaves and famous for stretching — without regular pinching and real light, coleus turns into bare stems with a topknot in weeks.

Vegetables & fruit

Tomato

10 guides

Solanum lycopersicum

Warm-season fruiting crop from the Andes — needs 6-8 hours of direct sun, consistent water, and steady feeding.

Pepper

10 guides

Capsicum annuum

Warm-season fruiting crop from Central America — slower and more heat-loving than tomatoes, but tolerant of brief drought.

Lettuce

7 guides

Lactuca sativa

Cool-season leafy crop — bolts in heat, rots in waterlogged soil, but otherwise nearly fool-proof.

Bean

9 guides

Phaseolus vulgaris

Warm-season legume — nitrogen-fixing, fast to set pods, sensitive to cold wet soil at planting.

Garlic

8 guides

Allium sativum

Long-season bulb crop — planted in autumn, harvested in summer, hates wet feet.

Pea

9 guides

Pisum sativum

Cool-season climbing legume — sweet, fast, and inevitably done by midsummer in most US climates.

Squash

9 guides

Cucurbita pepo

Sprawling warm-season fruit — massive leaves, massive water demand, and a target for squash bugs and vine borers.

Carrot

8 guides

Daucus carota

Cool-season taproot — needs loose, stone-free soil and steady moisture to size up sweet roots.

Strawberry

9 guides

Fragaria ananassa

Low-growing perennial fruit — productive in full sun, but prone to slugs, crown rot in wet soil, and birds at fruiting time.

Eggplant

9 guides

Solanum melongena

Heat-loving fruiting nightshade — slower than tomatoes and a magnet for flea beetles and spider mites.

Kale

8 guides

Brassica oleracea

Hardy cool-season brassica — sweetens after frost, but cabbage worms and aphids love it.

Spinach

7 guides

Spinacia oleracea

Cool-season leafy green — fast and easy in spring and autumn, but bolts to seed the moment it gets hot.

Broccoli

8 guides

Brassica oleracea

Cool-season brassica grown for its flower head — bolts in heat and feeds cabbage worms if left unprotected.

Potato

7 guides

Solanum tuberosum

Cool-to-warm season tuber — hilled as it grows, and vulnerable to blight and Colorado potato beetle.

Onion

8 guides

Allium cepa

Long-season bulb — sizes up with steady moisture and plenty of sun, then cures for months of storage.

Cabbage

8 guides

Brassica oleracea

Cool-season brassica grown for its dense head — splits with irregular watering and feeds cabbage worms and aphids.

Cauliflower

8 guides

Brassica oleracea

Fussiest of the brassicas — needs steady cool weather and consistent water, or the head buttons or turns ricey.

Blueberry

9 guides

Vaccinium corymbosum

Acid-loving fruiting shrub — yellows fast (chlorosis) when the soil pH is too high, and wants consistent moisture.

Corn

7 guides

Zea mays

Tall warm-season grass crop — a heavy feeder and drinker that needs block planting for good pollination.

Lemon tree

9 guides

Citrus × limon

Potted citrus drop leaves at cold draughts, waterlogged roots, and winter moves indoors — yellowing between green veins is their classic hunger sign.

Avocado

9 guides

Persea americana

The pit-grown houseplant classic — its big thin leaves brown at the tips from accumulated salts and dry air long before anything is seriously wrong.

Olive tree

9 guides

Olea europaea

A Mediterranean tree living indoors on sufferance — it needs maximum sun and minimum water, and sheds leaves steadily in dim, warm winter rooms.

Banana plant

10 guides

Musa (dwarf cultivars)

A giant herb that grows a leaf a week in summer given heat, light, and lots of water — ragged leaf edges are normal; yellowing whole leaves are not.

Fig tree

9 guides

Ficus carica

The edible fig is deciduous — dropping every leaf in autumn is its job description. Off-season drop tracks drought, waterlogging, or a light change.

Zucchini

10 guides

Cucurbita pepo

A sprinter that goes from seed to harvest in two months — yellowing leaves mid-season usually mean hunger or mildew, and fruit that rots at the tip means uneven watering.

Herbs

Basil

9 guides

Ocimum basilicum

Warm-season annual herb from tropical Asia — fast-growing, flavour-packed, and intolerant of cold soil.

Rosemary

9 guides

Salvia rosmarinus

Woody Mediterranean herb — wants sharp drainage and full sun; far more plants die from overwatering than from neglect.

Mint

9 guides

Mentha spicata

Vigorous spreading herb — thrives in moist soil and part shade, and will take over a bed if it is not contained.

Thyme

9 guides

Thymus vulgaris

Low, woody Mediterranean herb — loves heat, sun, and dry feet; rots quickly in rich, wet soil.

Cilantro

8 guides

Coriandrum sativum

Cool-season annual herb — bolts to seed (coriander) the moment it gets hot, so succession-sow for a steady supply.

Oregano

9 guides

Origanum vulgare

Hardy Mediterranean herb — thrives on sun and lean, dry soil; flavour intensifies when it is not overwatered.

Herb garden

9 guides

mixed culinary herbs

Mixed culinary herbs — Mediterranean herbs (rosemary, thyme, oregano, sage) and tender herbs (basil, parsley, cilantro) have opposite watering needs.

Lavender

9 guides

Lavandula angustifolia

A Mediterranean shrub that would rather be drought-stricken than damp — indoor lavender fails from kindness (water and warmth) far more than neglect.

Parsley

10 guides

Petroselinum crispum

A biennial grown as an annual — yellowing usually means thirst or a spent plant, and a sudden tall flower stalk means its season is simply over.

Sage

9 guides

Salvia officinalis

A woody Mediterranean herb — grey, drooping sage is nearly always wet feet, not thirst, and old plants naturally get leggy without a spring trim.

Dill

10 guides

Anethum graveolens

A fast, taprooted annual that bolts to flower at the first sign of stress — leggy, sparse dill is asking for more sun, cooler weather, or a fresh sowing.

Chives

10 guides

Allium schoenoprasum

A clumping perennial onion that regrows from every haircut — yellow tips usually mean thirst or a hungry, overcrowded clump ready for dividing.

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