Growli

Plant care

Hoya Sarawakensis (Sarawak hoya) care

Hoya sarawakensis

Also called Sarawak hoya, Borneo wax vine.

RHS H1bUSDA 11-12Pet-safeIndoor Vines reach 2-3 m indoors with support

Watering rhythm

7-10days

When the top 2-3 cm of mix is dry, roughly every 7-10 days in growth

Light

Bright indirect light (just back from a sunny window)

Soil

Coarse, very free-draining epiphytic mix

Humidity

60-80%

Temp

20-30°C

Pet safety

Pet-safe

Mature size

Vines reach 2-3 m indoors with support

Care at a glance

Light

Hoya Sarawakensis is what florists mean by "bright spot, no direct sun" — close enough to a south or east window to feel the brightness, with a sheer curtain or a few feet of distance keeping the sun off the leaves. Bright, filtered light very close to a window, or under a grow light, produces strong growth and blooms. It tolerates a little gentle direct sun but should be shielded from hot midday rays, which scorch the large leaves. A phone lux-meter at the leaf surface should read 1,500-3,000 lux at noon.

Watering

Water hoya sarawakensis when the top 2-3 cm of mix is dry, roughly every 7-10 days in growth. The actual day count varies with pot size, light, and season — the finger test (or lifting the pot to feel its weight) is more reliable than a fixed calendar. Empty any drainage saucer afterwards so the pot isn't sitting in water. Water thoroughly and let the pot drain, then allow the upper mix to dry before watering again. The thick leaves store moisture, so err toward drier rather than wetter; standing water on leaves invites fungal problems. Reduce frequency in winter.

Soil and pot

Hoya Sarawakensis grows best in coarse, very free-draining epiphytic mix. Orchid bark, perlite and a little coco coir (roughly 2:1:1) mimic its epiphytic forest roots. Horticultural charcoal improves aeration. The large root system benefits from an open, chunky medium that never stays waterlogged. A pot with a working drainage hole is non-negotiable for this species — even free-draining mix will turn soggy in a closed planter. If you love the look of a decorative pot without a hole, use it as a cachepot around an inner nursery pot you can lift out to water.

Humidity and temperature

Hoya Sarawakensis sits happiest at around 60-80% humidity and 20-30°C (68-86°F). As a lowland Bornean forest epiphyte it prefers consistently high humidity for best growth, though it manages at 50% indoors. Use a humidifier rather than misting the foliage, since water lingering on the leaves can encourage fungal spotting. If you keep the room above 20 year-round and avoid placing the plant near a cold draught, a hot radiator, or an air-conditioning vent, you have already handled the two biggest indoor stressors.

Fertilising

Feed hoya sarawakensis sparingly. Feed every 3-4 weeks in spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertiliser at half strength; a bloom-boosting higher-potassium feed in late spring supports its large umbels. Stop feeding when growth slows in autumn and winter. Skip fertiliser entirely on a stressed, recently-repotted, or actively wilting plant — fertiliser salts make damage worse, not better. Wait for a round of healthy new growth before resuming a feeding rhythm.

Common problems

Below are the issues we see most often on hoya sarawakensis in the Growli community. Each is annotated with the most common cause so you know where to start.

  • Cold or draught damageThis warmth-loving Bornean species sulks below about 16°C, dropping or browning leaves. Keep it warm and away from cold windows and air-conditioning drafts.
  • Fungal leaf spotsHigh humidity plus water sitting on the broad leaves causes dark blotches. Improve airflow, water at the soil line, and humidify the air rather than wetting foliage.
  • Slow or stalled growthUsually too little light or too cool a position. Move closer to a bright window or add a grow light and maintain steady warmth.
  • MealybugsThese cottony pests gather in leaf axils. Remove with alcohol swabs and treat with insecticidal soap, repeating until no new pests appear.

Propagation

Propagate from stem cuttings with one or two nodes and a leaf pair; root in damp sphagnum moss or a perlite-bark mix with high humidity and bottom warmth. Rooting takes about 4-8 weeks. A humid propagation box noticeably improves success for this tropical species. Propagation is the cheapest, most satisfying way to expand a collection — and it doubles as insurance against losing a mature plant to an accident. Take a backup cutting once the parent is established and healthy.

Toxicity to pets

Hoya Sarawakensis is pet-safe. The genus Hoya is ASPCA-listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs (the wax plant, Hoya carnosa, is on the ASPCA non-toxic list). Hoya sarawakensis shares this genus stance and is considered pet-safe; as with any houseplant, eating large amounts may cause mild, temporary digestive upset. If you keep cats, dogs, or curious children in the house, weigh placement carefully — a high shelf or a hanging planter is enough for casual safety. For severe ingestion incidents, call your local vet and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (in the US, 888-426-4435).

Pet-safety status is sourced from the ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plant List, which catalogues the most-asked-about plants for cats, dogs, and horses.

Hoya Sarawakensis care — frequently asked questions

What is the common name for Hoya sarawakensis?

Hoya sarawakensis is most commonly called Hoya Sarawakensis, but it is also known as Sarawak hoya, Borneo wax vine. The names refer to the same species, so care instructions for Hoya Sarawakensis apply identically to anything sold as Sarawak hoya.

How much light does hoya sarawakensis need?

Hoya Sarawakensis grows best in bright indirect light (just back from a sunny window). Bright, filtered light very close to a window, or under a grow light, produces strong growth and blooms. It tolerates a little gentle direct sun but should be shielded from hot midday rays, which scorch the large leaves.

How often should I water hoya sarawakensis?

Water hoya sarawakensis when the top 2-3 cm of mix is dry, roughly every 7-10 days in growth. Water thoroughly and let the pot drain, then allow the upper mix to dry before watering again. The thick leaves store moisture, so err toward drier rather than wetter; standing water on leaves invites fungal problems. Reduce frequency in winter. The finger-test (or lifting the pot to feel its weight) beats a fixed weekly calendar because pot size, light, and season all change how fast the soil dries.

Is hoya sarawakensis toxic to cats and dogs?

Hoya Sarawakensis is pet-safe. The genus Hoya is ASPCA-listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs (the wax plant, Hoya carnosa, is on the ASPCA non-toxic list). Hoya sarawakensis shares this genus stance and is considered pet-safe; as with any houseplant, eating large amounts may cause mild, temporary digestive upset.

What USDA hardiness zone does hoya sarawakensis grow in?

Hoya Sarawakensis is rated for USDA zone 11-12 (indoor in most US homes) and RHS hardiness H1b. Outside that range, grow it as a container plant that overwinters indoors before the first hard frost.

Hoya Sarawakensis deep-dive guides

Every aspect of hoya sarawakensis care, each with its own calibrated guide:

Featured in these plant shortlists

Hoya Sarawakensis qualifies for 9 curated Growli shortlists — each one filtered objectively from our structured plant-care library, so the selection is consistent and checkable:

Related guides

Hoya Sarawakensis is also commonly called Sarawak hoya or Borneo wax vine.