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Cold hardiness & minimum temperature

Is Sharp-fruited Abutilon (Abutilon oxycarpum)cold hardy? Hardiness zone & min temp

Also called Sharp-fruited Abutilon, Flannel Weed, Straggly Lantern-bush, Small-leaved Abutilon.

More about sharp-fruited abutilon

About Sharp-fruited Abutilon

Abutilon oxycarpum · also called Sharp-fruited Abutilon, Flannel Weed · flowering

Abutilon oxycarpum is a soft-wooded Australian native shrub found across all mainland states in dry sclerophyll woodlands, rocky hill slopes, and creek banks, adapting to both tropical and warm-temperate climates. The species takes its name from the distinctive sharp awns (oxycarpum means 'sharp fruit') on the star-shaped seed capsules; small yellow flowers appear seasonally and attract bees and butterflies. Key care points are full sun, well-drained soil, and minimal watering once established. Abutilon oxycarpum is considered non-toxic to cats and dogs.

Cold limit: USDA 9–11 · RHS H2 (8–35°C)

What sharp-fruited abutilon's hardiness rating actually means

Sharp-fruited Abutilon is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Its RHS rating of H2 means: Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot. On the US scale that maps to USDA 9–11 — the zones where it can be left outdoors year-round.

New to these scales? The USDA hardiness zone map explained covers how the zone numbers work, and you can find your own zone with the zone finder.

Minimum temperature — and what happens below it

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Sharp-fruited Abutilon shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

Concretely, for sharp-fruited abutilon as it gets too cold:

Can sharp-fruited abutilon go outside or overwinter — and where?

Work back from your local frost dates with the frost-date calculator: the last spring frost and first autumn frost are what really decide when sharp-fruited abutilon can be outside. US growers can check USDA zones; UK growers should use the RHS hardiness ratings, which match the H2 figure above.

Frost protection for borderline sharp-fruited abutilon

Sharp-fruited Abutilon is right on a hardiness edge in many gardens, so if you are pushing it, these measures buy it the margin it needs:

Sharp-fruited Abutilon hardiness — frequently asked questions

Is sharp-fruited abutilon cold hardy?

Sharp-fruited Abutilon is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Borderline outdoors. In its mild end of USDA 9–11 (and sheltered UK gardens) sharp-fruited abutilon can stay out; in colder areas it must be lifted, brought in, or treated as a frost-tender plant.

What is the minimum temperature sharp-fruited abutilon can survive?

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Sharp-fruited Abutilon shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

What hardiness zone is sharp-fruited abutilon?

Sharp-fruited Abutilon is rated USDA 9–11 and RHS H2 — Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot.

Can sharp-fruited abutilon survive winter outside?

It can live outside year-round only in the mildest, most sheltered part of USDA 9–11 or a frost-free UK microclimate. In colder zones, grow it in a pot you can move under cover, or lift its tubers/roots and store them frost-free over winter. A south-facing wall, free-draining soil and a dry winter position can push it a full zone hardier than the books suggest.

How do I protect sharp-fruited abutilon from frost?

Mulch the crown or root zone deeply with bark, straw or leaf-mould before the first hard frost. Move container plants against a warm wall or into an unheated but frost-free porch or greenhouse. Fleece the top growth on the coldest nights, and keep it on the dry side — dry roots survive cold far better than wet ones. Lift dahlia-type tubers or tender crowns after the first light frost blackens the foliage and store them somewhere cool but frost-free.

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