Cold hardiness & minimum temperature

Is Kamchatka Stonecrop (Phedimus kamtschaticus)cold hardy? Hardiness zone & min temp

Also called Kamchatka Sedum, Orange Stonecrop, Russian Stonecrop.

More about kamchatka stonecrop

About Kamchatka Stonecrop

Phedimus kamtschaticus · also called Kamchatka Sedum, Orange Stonecrop · flowering

Phedimus kamtschaticus (formerly Sedum kamtschaticum) is a mat-forming, semi-evergreen stonecrop from northeast Asia bearing bright yellow-orange star-shaped flowers in midsummer above succulent green-bronze foliage. It is extremely hardy, drought-tolerant, and ideal for rock gardens, walls, and ground cover. Considered pet-safe based on ASPCA Sedum guidance.

Cold limit: USDA 3-9 · RHS H7 (-35-30°C)

Watch for — Stem rot in wet winters: Prolonged wet cold causes rot at the crown; improve drainage around plants and avoid planting in low spots.

What kamchatka stonecrop's hardiness rating actually means

Yes — kamchatka stonecrop is genuinely cold hardy. Rated RHS H7 and USDA 3-9, it lives outdoors all year and needs winter cold rather than protection from it. Its RHS rating of H7 means: Hardy in the severest European continental winters. On the US scale that maps to USDA 3-9 — the zones where it can be left outdoors year-round.

New to these scales? The USDA hardiness zone map explained covers how the zone numbers work, and you can find your own zone with the zone finder.

Minimum temperature — and what happens below it

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly below about −20 °C. Kamchatka Stonecrop is built for winter — once established it takes hard frost and snow in its stride.

Concretely, for kamchatka stonecrop as it gets too cold:

It tolerates winter lows to about −20 °C once established.
Below its rated zone, the visible damage is browned or blackened top growth and, in the worst case, a killed crown or root.
First-year, newly planted, or container-grown specimens are noticeably less hardy than established garden plants — the roots are exposed.

Can kamchatka stonecrop go outside or overwinter — and where?

Plant it out within USDA 3-9 and it overwinters with little or no help.
It does not want to come indoors — a warm winter room actually weakens a hardy plant by denying it dormancy.
The real risks in its range are waterlogging, wind-rock on young plants, and a late hard frost on new growth — not ordinary winter cold.

Work back from your local frost dates with the frost-date calculator: the last spring frost and first autumn frost are what really decide when kamchatka stonecrop can be outside. US growers can check USDA zones; UK growers should use the RHS hardiness ratings, which match the H7 figure above.

Kamchatka Stonecrop hardiness — frequently asked questions

Is kamchatka stonecrop cold hardy?

Yes — kamchatka stonecrop is genuinely cold hardy. Rated RHS H7 and USDA 3-9, it lives outdoors all year and needs winter cold rather than protection from it. An outdoor plant. Kamchatka Stonecrop is hardy across USDA 3-9; it belongs in the ground or a frost-proof container, not on a windowsill, and many types actively need a cold winter to perform.

What is the minimum temperature kamchatka stonecrop can survive?

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly below about −20 °C. Kamchatka Stonecrop is built for winter — once established it takes hard frost and snow in its stride.

What hardiness zone is kamchatka stonecrop?

Kamchatka Stonecrop is rated USDA 3-9 and RHS H7 — Hardy in the severest European continental winters.

Can kamchatka stonecrop survive winter outside?

Plant it out within USDA 3-9 and it overwinters with little or no help. It does not want to come indoors — a warm winter room actually weakens a hardy plant by denying it dormancy. The real risks in its range are waterlogging, wind-rock on young plants, and a late hard frost on new growth — not ordinary winter cold.

What happens to kamchatka stonecrop below its minimum temperature?

It tolerates winter lows to about −20 °C once established. Below its rated zone, the visible damage is browned or blackened top growth and, in the worst case, a killed crown or root. First-year, newly planted, or container-grown specimens are noticeably less hardy than established garden plants — the roots are exposed.