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Cold hardiness & minimum temperature

Is Japanese Climbing Fern (Lygodium japonicum)cold hardy? Hardiness zone & min temp

Also called Vine-like fern.

More about japanese climbing fern

About Japanese Climbing Fern

Lygodium japonicum · also called Vine-like fern · tropical

Japanese climbing fern is an unusual twining fern from East Asia whose wiry, vine-like fronds climb by elongating indefinitely, scrambling over supports with lacy, triangular leaflets. Grown as a curiosity for its true-vine habit, it is warmth-loving and vigorous, but it is a notorious invasive weed in the south-eastern US and should be contained carefully.

Cold limit: USDA 7-10 (invasive in the warm south-eastern US; grow contained, not in the ground) · RHS H2 (15-27°C)

What japanese climbing fern's hardiness rating actually means

Japanese Climbing Fern is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Its RHS rating of H2 means: Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot. On the US scale that maps to USDA 7-10 (invasive in the warm south-eastern US; grow contained, not in the ground) — the zones where it can be left outdoors year-round.

New to these scales? The USDA hardiness zone map explained covers how the zone numbers work, and you can find your own zone with the zone finder.

Minimum temperature — and what happens below it

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Japanese Climbing Fern shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

Concretely, for japanese climbing fern as it gets too cold:

Can japanese climbing fern go outside or overwinter — and where?

Work back from your local frost dates with the frost-date calculator: the last spring frost and first autumn frost are what really decide when japanese climbing fern can be outside. US growers can check USDA zones; UK growers should use the RHS hardiness ratings, which match the H2 figure above.

Frost protection for borderline japanese climbing fern

Japanese Climbing Fern is right on a hardiness edge in many gardens, so if you are pushing it, these measures buy it the margin it needs:

Japanese Climbing Fern hardiness — frequently asked questions

Is japanese climbing fern cold hardy?

Japanese Climbing Fern is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Borderline outdoors. In its mild end of USDA 7-10 (invasive in the warm south-eastern US; grow contained, not in the ground) (and sheltered UK gardens) japanese climbing fern can stay out; in colder areas it must be lifted, brought in, or treated as a frost-tender plant.

What is the minimum temperature japanese climbing fern can survive?

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Japanese Climbing Fern shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

What hardiness zone is japanese climbing fern?

Japanese Climbing Fern is rated USDA 7-10 (invasive in the warm south-eastern US; grow contained, not in the ground) and RHS H2 — Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot.

Can japanese climbing fern survive winter outside?

It can live outside year-round only in the mildest, most sheltered part of USDA 7-10 (invasive in the warm south-eastern US; grow contained, not in the ground) or a frost-free UK microclimate. In colder zones, grow it in a pot you can move under cover, or lift its tubers/roots and store them frost-free over winter. A south-facing wall, free-draining soil and a dry winter position can push it a full zone hardier than the books suggest.

How do I protect japanese climbing fern from frost?

Mulch the crown or root zone deeply with bark, straw or leaf-mould before the first hard frost. Move container plants against a warm wall or into an unheated but frost-free porch or greenhouse. Fleece the top growth on the coldest nights, and keep it on the dry side — dry roots survive cold far better than wet ones. Lift dahlia-type tubers or tender crowns after the first light frost blackens the foliage and store them somewhere cool but frost-free.

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