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Cold hardiness & minimum temperature

Is Graptopetalum amethystinum (Graptopetalum amethystinum)cold hardy? Hardiness zone & min temp

Also called Lavender pebbles, jewel-leaf plant.

More about graptopetalum amethystinum

About Graptopetalum amethystinum

Graptopetalum amethystinum · also called Lavender pebbles, jewel-leaf plant · houseplant

Graptopetalum amethystinum, called lavender pebbles, bears plump, rounded, pebble-like leaves in pearly lilac, pink, and blue-grey tones with a soft farina coating. It forms loose rosettes on short stems and trails as it ages. A true desert succulent, it needs strong sun, very sharp drainage, and infrequent watering to keep its jewel-toned bloom.

Cold limit: USDA 9-11 (frost-tender; protect below ~2°C) · RHS H2 (18-27°C)

What graptopetalum amethystinum's hardiness rating actually means

Graptopetalum amethystinum is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Its RHS rating of H2 means: Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot. On the US scale that maps to USDA 9-11 (frost-tender; protect below ~2°C) — the zones where it can be left outdoors year-round.

New to these scales? The USDA hardiness zone map explained covers how the zone numbers work, and you can find your own zone with the zone finder.

Minimum temperature — and what happens below it

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Graptopetalum amethystinum shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

Concretely, for graptopetalum amethystinum as it gets too cold:

Can graptopetalum amethystinum go outside or overwinter — and where?

Work back from your local frost dates with the frost-date calculator: the last spring frost and first autumn frost are what really decide when graptopetalum amethystinum can be outside. US growers can check USDA zones; UK growers should use the RHS hardiness ratings, which match the H2 figure above.

Frost protection for borderline graptopetalum amethystinum

Graptopetalum amethystinum is right on a hardiness edge in many gardens, so if you are pushing it, these measures buy it the margin it needs:

Graptopetalum amethystinum hardiness — frequently asked questions

Is graptopetalum amethystinum cold hardy?

Graptopetalum amethystinum is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Borderline outdoors. In its mild end of USDA 9-11 (frost-tender; protect below ~2°C) (and sheltered UK gardens) graptopetalum amethystinum can stay out; in colder areas it must be lifted, brought in, or treated as a frost-tender plant.

What is the minimum temperature graptopetalum amethystinum can survive?

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Graptopetalum amethystinum shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

What hardiness zone is graptopetalum amethystinum?

Graptopetalum amethystinum is rated USDA 9-11 (frost-tender; protect below ~2°C) and RHS H2 — Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot.

Can graptopetalum amethystinum survive winter outside?

It can live outside year-round only in the mildest, most sheltered part of USDA 9-11 (frost-tender; protect below ~2°C) or a frost-free UK microclimate. In colder zones, grow it in a pot you can move under cover, or lift its tubers/roots and store them frost-free over winter. A south-facing wall, free-draining soil and a dry winter position can push it a full zone hardier than the books suggest.

How do I protect graptopetalum amethystinum from frost?

Mulch the crown or root zone deeply with bark, straw or leaf-mould before the first hard frost. Move container plants against a warm wall or into an unheated but frost-free porch or greenhouse. Fleece the top growth on the coldest nights, and keep it on the dry side — dry roots survive cold far better than wet ones. Lift dahlia-type tubers or tender crowns after the first light frost blackens the foliage and store them somewhere cool but frost-free.

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