Cold hardiness & minimum temperature

Is Fernleaf yarrow (Achillea filipendulina)cold hardy? Hardiness zone & min temp

Also called Fernleaf yarrow, Fern-leaf yarrow, Cloth of gold.

More about fernleaf yarrow

About Fernleaf yarrow

Achillea filipendulina · also called Fernleaf yarrow, Fern-leaf yarrow · flowering

Achillea filipendulina is a tall, robust yarrow from central and southwestern Asia, distinguished by its rich golden-yellow, plate-like flower corymbs up to 10 cm across atop sturdy stems. The finely divided, aromatic, fern-like foliage is highly ornamental. Exceptional for cutting, dried flower arrangements, and pollinator gardens. Extremely drought-tolerant and easy in full sun.

Cold limit: USDA 3–9 · RHS H7 (-35°C to 38°C)

Watch for — Root and crown rot: The primary cause of plant loss, particularly in wet winters. Plant in raised beds or well-amended, free-draining soil. Do not mulch over the crown. Remove dead foliage in autumn to improve air circulation around the crown.

What fernleaf yarrow's hardiness rating actually means

Yes — fernleaf yarrow is genuinely cold hardy. Rated RHS H7 and USDA 3–9, it lives outdoors all year and needs winter cold rather than protection from it. Its RHS rating of H7 means: Hardy in the severest European continental winters. On the US scale that maps to USDA 3–9 — the zones where it can be left outdoors year-round.

New to these scales? The USDA hardiness zone map explained covers how the zone numbers work, and you can find your own zone with the zone finder.

Minimum temperature — and what happens below it

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly below about −20 °C. Fernleaf yarrow is built for winter — once established it takes hard frost and snow in its stride.

Concretely, for fernleaf yarrow as it gets too cold:

It tolerates winter lows to about −20 °C once established.
Below its rated zone, the visible damage is browned or blackened top growth and, in the worst case, a killed crown or root.
First-year, newly planted, or container-grown specimens are noticeably less hardy than established garden plants — the roots are exposed.

Can fernleaf yarrow go outside or overwinter — and where?

Plant it out within USDA 3–9 and it overwinters with little or no help.
It does not want to come indoors — a warm winter room actually weakens a hardy plant by denying it dormancy.
The real risks in its range are waterlogging, wind-rock on young plants, and a late hard frost on new growth — not ordinary winter cold.

Work back from your local frost dates with the frost-date calculator: the last spring frost and first autumn frost are what really decide when fernleaf yarrow can be outside. US growers can check USDA zones; UK growers should use the RHS hardiness ratings, which match the H7 figure above.

Fernleaf yarrow hardiness — frequently asked questions

Is fernleaf yarrow cold hardy?

Yes — fernleaf yarrow is genuinely cold hardy. Rated RHS H7 and USDA 3–9, it lives outdoors all year and needs winter cold rather than protection from it. An outdoor plant. Fernleaf yarrow is hardy across USDA 3–9; it belongs in the ground or a frost-proof container, not on a windowsill, and many types actively need a cold winter to perform.

What is the minimum temperature fernleaf yarrow can survive?

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly below about −20 °C. Fernleaf yarrow is built for winter — once established it takes hard frost and snow in its stride.

What hardiness zone is fernleaf yarrow?

Fernleaf yarrow is rated USDA 3–9 and RHS H7 — Hardy in the severest European continental winters.

Can fernleaf yarrow survive winter outside?

Plant it out within USDA 3–9 and it overwinters with little or no help. It does not want to come indoors — a warm winter room actually weakens a hardy plant by denying it dormancy. The real risks in its range are waterlogging, wind-rock on young plants, and a late hard frost on new growth — not ordinary winter cold.

What happens to fernleaf yarrow below its minimum temperature?

It tolerates winter lows to about −20 °C once established. Below its rated zone, the visible damage is browned or blackened top growth and, in the worst case, a killed crown or root. First-year, newly planted, or container-grown specimens are noticeably less hardy than established garden plants — the roots are exposed.