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Cold hardiness & minimum temperature

Is Colocasia Fontanesii (Colocasia esculenta 'Fontanesii')cold hardy? Hardiness zone & min temp

Also called violet-stemmed taro, black-stemmed taro.

More about colocasia fontanesii

About Colocasia Fontanesii

Colocasia esculenta 'Fontanesii' · also called violet-stemmed taro, black-stemmed taro · tropical

Colocasia esculenta 'Fontanesii' is the violet-stemmed taro, with large drooping green leaves on striking dark purple-black stems and veining. A vigorous, moisture-loving clumping aroid, it wants bright light, abundant water, warmth, and rich soil, and even thrives in boggy conditions. Bold and fast-growing, but toxic to pets and people like all Colocasia.

Cold limit: USDA 8-11 (tuber may overwinter in zone 8 with mulch; frost-tender top growth) · RHS H2 (20-30°C)

Watch for — Yellowing or dormancy: Cold temperatures below about 15°C trigger leaf loss and dormancy. Keep warm; in cool climates store the tuber dry over winter.

What colocasia fontanesii's hardiness rating actually means

Colocasia Fontanesii is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Its RHS rating of H2 means: Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot. On the US scale that maps to USDA 8-11 (tuber may overwinter in zone 8 with mulch; frost-tender top growth) — the zones where it can be left outdoors year-round.

New to these scales? The USDA hardiness zone map explained covers how the zone numbers work, and you can find your own zone with the zone finder.

Minimum temperature — and what happens below it

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Colocasia Fontanesii shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

Concretely, for colocasia fontanesii as it gets too cold:

Can colocasia fontanesii go outside or overwinter — and where?

Work back from your local frost dates with the frost-date calculator: the last spring frost and first autumn frost are what really decide when colocasia fontanesii can be outside. US growers can check USDA zones; UK growers should use the RHS hardiness ratings, which match the H2 figure above.

Frost protection for borderline colocasia fontanesii

Colocasia Fontanesii is right on a hardiness edge in many gardens, so if you are pushing it, these measures buy it the margin it needs:

Colocasia Fontanesii hardiness — frequently asked questions

Is colocasia fontanesii cold hardy?

Colocasia Fontanesii is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Borderline outdoors. In its mild end of USDA 8-11 (tuber may overwinter in zone 8 with mulch; frost-tender top growth) (and sheltered UK gardens) colocasia fontanesii can stay out; in colder areas it must be lifted, brought in, or treated as a frost-tender plant.

What is the minimum temperature colocasia fontanesii can survive?

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Colocasia Fontanesii shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

What hardiness zone is colocasia fontanesii?

Colocasia Fontanesii is rated USDA 8-11 (tuber may overwinter in zone 8 with mulch; frost-tender top growth) and RHS H2 — Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot.

Can colocasia fontanesii survive winter outside?

It can live outside year-round only in the mildest, most sheltered part of USDA 8-11 (tuber may overwinter in zone 8 with mulch; frost-tender top growth) or a frost-free UK microclimate. In colder zones, grow it in a pot you can move under cover, or lift its tubers/roots and store them frost-free over winter. A south-facing wall, free-draining soil and a dry winter position can push it a full zone hardier than the books suggest.

How do I protect colocasia fontanesii from frost?

Mulch the crown or root zone deeply with bark, straw or leaf-mould before the first hard frost. Move container plants against a warm wall or into an unheated but frost-free porch or greenhouse. Fleece the top growth on the coldest nights, and keep it on the dry side — dry roots survive cold far better than wet ones. Lift dahlia-type tubers or tender crowns after the first light frost blackens the foliage and store them somewhere cool but frost-free.

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