Fertilising guide

How to fertilise Crocus 'Pickwick' (Crocus vernus 'Pickwick')— schedule & NPK

Also called Pickwick crocus, striped Dutch crocus, lilac striped crocus.

More about crocus 'pickwick'

About Crocus 'Pickwick'

Crocus vernus 'Pickwick' · also called Pickwick crocus, striped Dutch crocus · flowering

Crocus 'Pickwick' is a large Dutch crocus prized for pale lilac petals boldly feathered with deep violet stripes and a dark purple base. It flowers in early to mid spring from autumn-planted corms set 8-10 cm deep in full sun and gritty soil. Vigorous and easy, it naturalises in lawns and borders and returns dependably for years.

Growth habit: Compact, clump-forming geophyte from a corm with narrow silver-striped leaves and upright goblet flowers. Bulks up steadily by offsets and self-seeds into broad drifts.

Watch for — Declining flowering over time: Mowing or removing foliage too soon starves the corm. Leave leaves to die down naturally and feed lightly after bloom.

What fertiliser crocus 'pickwick' actually wants — and why

Crocus 'Pickwick' feeds for next year, not this one — the critical window is after flowering, while the leaves are still green and recharging the bulb.

A low-nitrogen, potassium- and phosphorus-leaning bulb fertiliser (something like 5-10-10) or bonemeal at planting. High nitrogen grows floppy leaves and rots stored bulbs.

For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for crocus 'pickwick': match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.

How often to feed crocus 'pickwick', and which months

Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For crocus 'pickwick':

A light feeder. Scatter a low-nitrogen bulb fertiliser as growth emerges and again after flowering to fatten the corm; bonemeal worked in at autumn planting suffices for naturalised plantings. The rhythm: a bulb feed at planting, a light feed as leaves emerge, and — most important — a potassium feed straight after flowering while the foliage is still green and feeding the bulb. Never cut the leaves off early.

The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when crocus 'pickwick' is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.

What strength to mix for crocus 'pickwick'

Use the bulb-feed label rate for crocus 'pickwick'; the timing (post-bloom, leaves still green) does far more for next year's display than the concentration.

Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water crocus 'pickwick' first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the crocus 'pickwick' watering schedule.

Signs you are over-feeding crocus 'pickwick'

Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for crocus 'pickwick':

Tall, floppy, soft leaves that flop over (too much nitrogen).
Soft or rotting bulbs lifted at the end of the season.
Lush foliage but few or poor flowers.

Signs you are under-feeding crocus 'pickwick'

Progressively fewer or smaller flowers year on year ("going blind").
Small, weak bulbs and thin foliage.
Bulbs that fail to come back at all after a few seasons.

If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full crocus 'pickwick' care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.

Flushing and leaching the salts

Bulbs are not container-flushed like houseplants; the equivalent is not over-feeding and lifting/dividing congested clumps of crocus 'pickwick' every few years so they are not competing for nutrients.

Organic vs synthetic feeds for crocus 'pickwick'

Organic options

Bonemeal worked in at planting plus a mulch of garden compost or well-rotted leaf-mould is the traditional, reliable approach for crocus 'pickwick'. UK: blood, fish & bone or Westland Bulb Food; US: Espoma Bulb-tone or bonemeal.

Synthetic / liquid feeds

A proprietary bulb fertiliser at planting and a high-potash liquid (tomato feed) after flowering — UK: Westland Bulb Food then Tomorite; US: Miracle-Gro Shake 'n Feed Bulb or a bloom booster post-flower.

Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.

Fertilising crocus 'pickwick' — frequently asked questions

What fertiliser does crocus 'pickwick' need?

A low-nitrogen, potassium- and phosphorus-leaning bulb fertiliser (something like 5-10-10) or bonemeal at planting. High nitrogen grows floppy leaves and rots stored bulbs. Crocus 'Pickwick' feeds for next year, not this one — the critical window is after flowering, while the leaves are still green and recharging the bulb.

How often should I feed crocus 'pickwick'?

A light feeder. Scatter a low-nitrogen bulb fertiliser as growth emerges and again after flowering to fatten the corm; bonemeal worked in at autumn planting suffices for naturalised plantings. A light feeder. Scatter a low-nitrogen bulb fertiliser as growth emerges and again after flowering to fatten the corm; bonemeal worked in at autumn planting suffices for naturalised plantings. The rhythm: a bulb feed at planting, a light feed as leaves emerge, and — most important — a potassium feed straight after flowering while the foliage is still green and feeding the bulb. Never cut the leaves off early.

What strength of feed for crocus 'pickwick'?