Getting it to bloom

Why won't my Aztec Lily bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called Aztec lily, Jacobean lily, Maltese cross lily (Sprekelia formosissima).

More about aztec lily

About Aztec Lily

Sprekelia formosissima · also called Aztec lily, Jacobean lily · flowering

Sprekelia formosissima is a striking bulbous perennial from Mexico and Guatemala, producing large, deep crimson, orchid-like flowers on bare stems in spring or early summer before the strap-like foliage fully develops. It demands full sun, excellent drainage, and a dry rest period after foliage dies back in autumn to set flower buds for the following season. In the UK it is best kept in a frost-free glasshouse or as a conservatory pot plant; in the US it can be grown outdoors year-round in zones 8–11. All parts of this plant are toxic to cats and dogs.

Plant type: flowering

Watch for — Failure to bloom: The most common complaint; caused by insufficient dormancy (bulbs need a dry, cool rest of at least eight to ten weeks), too much shade, or over-potting. Keep the bulb dry and slightly cool (7–10°C) through winter to trigger reliable flowering.

The reasons aztec lily isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming aztec lily traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.
Too much nitrogen feed, driving lush foliage at the expense of flowers (very common with general or lawn feeds).
The plant has not been deadheaded, so it stops flowering once it sets seed.
Irregular watering — drought or waterlogging at the budding stage makes buds abort.
It is still too young or was checked by a transplant and is rebuilding before flowering.

Feeding aztec lily a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

The fix — how to get aztec lily to flower

Maximise sun. Give aztec lily the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers.
Switch the feed. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.
Deadhead regularly. Remove spent flowers often to keep it producing more rather than stopping to set seed.
Water consistently. Keep moisture even through budding and flowering — drought-then-flood swings make buds drop.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for aztec lily and get the feeding right with the aztec lily fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

Aztec Lily flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full aztec lily care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

Aztec Lily blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my aztec lily flower?

Aztec Lily blooms on the season's growth given enough sun, warmth and the right feed — there is no cold or photoperiod trick, just good growing conditions and a bloom-leaning feed. The most common reason it is not happening: Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.

How do I make aztec lily bloom?

Give aztec lily the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.

When does aztec lily normally bloom?