Growli

Soil & potting mix

Best soil for Burrawang Palm (Macrozamia spiralis)

Also called Burrawang Palm, Burrawang, Spiralling Macrozamia.

More about burrawang palm

About Burrawang Palm

Macrozamia spiralis · also called Burrawang Palm, Burrawang · tropical

Macrozamia spiralis is a slow-growing Australian cycad native to coastal NSW, producing a short trunk and arching, dark-green fronds with spirally arranged leaflets. It tolerates dry, sandy soils and partial shade, making it a striking low-maintenance specimen for frost-free gardens. All parts are severely toxic to pets and humans.

Preferred mix: Sandy, free-draining loam

Watch for — Root rot: Caused by overwatering or poorly drained soil. Symptoms include yellowing fronds and a soft, mushy caudex base. Remove affected roots, dust with fungicide, and repot into dry, free-draining mix. Allow the plant to dry before resuming watering.

Why burrawang palm needs this mix

Burrawang Palm is an easy-going houseplant — it just wants a free-draining general mix that holds some moisture but never stays soggy.

For the full picture on what makes up a good mix, see our guide to the main types of soil and potting media — it explains why each ingredient above behaves the way it does.

What goes wrong with the wrong mix

The wrong soil is one of the most common reasons burrawang palm struggles, and the damage often shows up weeks later as a watering problem. For this species specifically:

Reusing tired, compacted old compost or skipping the perlite. A free-draining mix in a pot with a hole solves most "why is it struggling" cases for burrawang palm.

pH — does it matter for burrawang palm?

Burrawang Palm is not fussy about pH — a slightly acidic to neutral mix (around pH 6.0-7.0), which a standard peat-free compost provides, is perfectly fine. No testing needed.

If you want to check or adjust it, the soil pH guide walks through testing and the safe ways to nudge a mix more acidic or more alkaline.

DIY mix vs a bagged one

A decent bagged houseplant compost works for burrawang palm as long as you mix in perlite for air. The simple DIY ratio above is cheap and more reliable than a budget bag alone.

Drainage and the pot

A pot with a drainage hole and a saucer you empty after watering is all burrawang palm needs — the free-draining mix does the rest.

Refresh burrawang palm's mix every 18-24 months; even good compost slumps and compacts, and fresh, airy mix is often the simplest fix for a tired plant. When the time comes, our repotting guide for burrawang palm covers the timing and technique step by step.

Burrawang Palm soil — frequently asked questions

What is the best soil mix for burrawang palm?

3 parts peat-free houseplant compost : 1 part perlite : 1 part orchid bark or coco chips (optional). Burrawang Palm is adaptable, but like most houseplants it still needs air at the roots — a mix that drains freely while holding a working moisture reserve.

Can I use normal potting soil for burrawang palm?

Plain garden soil or a cheap, claggy compost compacts in the pot and slowly suffocates burrawang palm's roots. A decent bagged houseplant compost works for burrawang palm as long as you mix in perlite for air. The simple DIY ratio above is cheap and more reliable than a budget bag alone.

Does burrawang palm need a special pH?

Burrawang Palm is not fussy about pH — a slightly acidic to neutral mix (around pH 6.0-7.0), which a standard peat-free compost provides, is perfectly fine. No testing needed.

Should I buy a bagged mix or make my own for burrawang palm?

A decent bagged houseplant compost works for burrawang palm as long as you mix in perlite for air. The simple DIY ratio above is cheap and more reliable than a budget bag alone.

How often should I refresh the soil for burrawang palm?

Refresh burrawang palm's mix every 18-24 months; even good compost slumps and compacts, and fresh, airy mix is often the simplest fix for a tired plant. A pot with a drainage hole and a saucer you empty after watering is all burrawang palm needs — the free-draining mix does the rest.

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