Repotting guide

When & how to repot Totara (Podocarpus totara)

Also called totara, New Zealand totara.

More about totara

About Totara

Podocarpus totara · also called totara, New Zealand totara · flowering

A long-lived New Zealand conifer with stiff, sharp-pointed bronze-green needles and distinctive stringy reddish bark. Slow-growing but eventually a substantial tree, it tolerates wind, coastal exposure, and poor soils. Female trees bear fleshy red receptacles holding the seed. Grown as a specimen, shelterbelt, or clipped hedge in mild climates.

Mature size: Slowly to 6-12 m in cultivation over decades; a forest giant of 20-30 m in the wild, but easily kept small as a hedge.

Watch for — Slow establishment: Naturally slow-growing; keep young trees watered and weed-free for the first few seasons to build a strong root system.

How to tell totara needs repotting

Repotting on a calendar is less reliable than reading the plant. For totara, watch for these signs:

Thick roots out of the drainage holes, or circling the surface and lifting the plant.
The pot dries out unusually fast and totara wilts between waterings it used to shrug off.
The plant is visibly top-heavy and tips over easily.
Stalled growth and small new leaves over a full season — though with a big specimen, top-dressing is often the better first response before a full repot.

For the underlying biology of a pot-bound root system and why it stalls a plant, see our guide to spotting and fixing a root-bound plant.

How often to repot totara

Every 2–3 years; top-dress in the in-between years. Totara's growth habit — upright evergreen conifer, conical when young and broadening with age into a tall tree; tolerant of hard pruning and shearing for hedging. — sets the pace. A long-lived New Zealand conifer with stiff, sharp-pointed bronze-green needles and distinctive stringy reddish bark. Slow-growing but eventually a substantial tree, it tolerates wind, coastal exposure, and poor soils. Female trees bear fleshy red receptacles holding the seed. Grown as a specimen, shelterbelt, or clipped hedge in mild climates.

What size pot to step totara up to

Move up exactly one pot size. A heavy totara dropped into a vastly bigger pot sits in a reservoir of wet soil its roots cannot reach, which rots them and destabilises the plant. In the years between repots, lift off and replace the top 3–5 cm of soil (top-dressing) instead — it refreshes nutrients without the shock of a full repot.

Not sure of the exact diameter? Our pot size calculator takes the current pot and root spread and tells you the right next size — it deliberately recommends a single step up, never a big jump.

The best time of year to repot totara

Early spring, just as new growth restarts, is the ideal window for totara. The plant is moving into its strongest growth phase and re-roots into fresh soil quickly. Avoid repotting in winter dormancy or, for flowering plants, while it is in bud or bloom — recovery is slowest then and you risk dropping the flowers.

Step-by-step: repotting totara

Consider top-dressing first. If totara is not badly root-bound, scrape off and replace the top 3–5 cm of soil instead — far less shock for a big plant that hates moving.
Get help and one size up. For a full repot, choose a pot just one size larger. A heavy plant needs two people and a stable, free-draining pot.
Ease it out on its side. Lay the plant down, slide the pot off, and gently loosen the outer roots. Do not bare-root a mature specimen.
Repot at the same depth. Add fresh well-drained, moderately fertile soil beneath and around the rootball, keeping the original soil line. Firm it so the trunk is stable and upright.
Water and leave it put. Water thoroughly, then leave totara in the same spot and light — moving and repotting at once is what makes it drop leaves.

Aftercare

Leave totara in exactly the same spot and light it was in before — moving and repotting at the same time is what makes a big specimen drop leaves. Water it in well, then let the top of the soil dry before watering again so the larger volume of fresh soil does not stay sodden. Do not fertilise for about 4 weeks — fresh mix already carries nutrients and feeding freshly disturbed roots scorches them.

The right soil mix for totara

Totara wants well-drained, moderately fertile soil. Adaptable to a wide range from sandy to clay loams provided drainage is reasonable. Tolerates exposed and coastal sites; dislikes permanent waterlogging. Always use fresh mix when you repot — reusing old, broken-down soil reintroduces the compaction and poor drainage you are repotting to fix.

Repotting totara — frequently asked questions

How often should you repot totara?

Every 2–3 years; top-dress in the in-between years for totara. Fully repot totara only every 2–3 years; in the in-between years just top-dress the top 3–5 cm of soil. Step up one pot size in spring with well-drained, moderately fertile soil. It is heavy and hates being moved, and a vastly oversized pot holds water against the roots and rots them.

What size pot does totara need?

When is the best time of year to repot totara?

Should you top-dress or fully repot totara?

For a big, heavy totara, top-dressing — replacing the top 3–5 cm of soil — is the gentler option most years, with a full repot only every 2–3 years. A mature specimen sulks and drops leaves when fully repotted, so do it as rarely as the roots allow.

Should you fertilise totara after repotting?

Not immediately. Wait about 4 weeks after repotting totara. Fresh mix already contains nutrients, and feeding freshly cut or disturbed roots burns them. Resume your normal feeding routine once you see new growth.