Repotting guide

When & how to repot Pelargonium crispum (Pelargonium crispum)

Also called Lemon geranium, Finger bowl pelargonium, Lemon-scented pelargonium.

More about pelargonium crispum

About Pelargonium crispum

Pelargonium crispum · also called Lemon geranium, Finger bowl pelargonium · herb

Pelargonium crispum is the lemon geranium, an upright, columnar scented species with small, crisp, crinkled leaves that smell sharply of lemon. Historically used in finger bowls, it makes a neat, fastigiate plant with pale-pink flowers. A tender South African pelargonium, it wants full sun, very sharp drainage and a frost-free winter rest.

Mature size: 40-70 cm tall but only 25-40 cm wide; an unusually narrow, upright pelargonium.

Watch for — Leaf rot in wet compost: Its drought-adapted roots rot fast in heavy, soggy mixes. Use a very gritty, free-draining medium and water only when dry.

How to tell pelargonium crispum needs repotting

Repotting on a calendar is less reliable than reading the plant. For pelargonium crispum, watch for these signs:

Roots growing out of the drainage holes, or the rootball lifting the plant proud of the rim.
Soil that has shrunk away from the pot sides and no longer holds water.
The pot is unstable because the plant has grown top-heavy.
Old, compacted, broken-down mix that stays wet too long — for a succulent that is a rot risk, so refresh it even if the pot size is fine.

For the underlying biology of a pot-bound root system and why it stalls a plant, see our guide to spotting and fixing a root-bound plant.

How often to repot pelargonium crispum

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix. Pelargonium crispum's growth habit — upright, narrow, fastigiate evergreen subshrub densely clothed in small, crisped, lemon-scented leaves; naturally columnar and tidy, taking well to clipping and topiary. — sets the pace. Pelargonium crispum is the lemon geranium, an upright, columnar scented species with small, crisp, crinkled leaves that smell sharply of lemon. Historically used in finger bowls, it makes a neat, fastigiate plant with pale-pink flowers. A tender South African pelargonium, it wants full sun, very sharp drainage and a frost-free winter rest.

What size pot to step pelargonium crispum up to

Use a pot only one size up — or even the same pot with fresh gritty mix if the roots have room. Pelargonium crispum stores water and rots in a large pot of slow-drying soil. A tight terracotta pot that dries fast is far safer than a generous plastic one. Never up-pot a succulent by several sizes.

Not sure of the exact diameter? Our pot size calculator takes the current pot and root spread and tells you the right next size — it deliberately recommends a single step up, never a big jump.

The best time of year to repot pelargonium crispum

Spring or summer, while pelargonium crispum is in active growth and warm, is best — roots recover fastest then, and the plant is not sitting in cool damp soil. Avoid repotting a succulent in winter dormancy.

Step-by-step: repotting pelargonium crispum

Repot dry. Do not water pelargonium crispum for several days first. Working with dry roots and dry mix dramatically lowers the rot risk for a succulent.
Pick a snug, fast-draining pot. Choose terracotta one size up at most, with a drainage hole. Have gritty very free-draining loam or potting mix with grit or perlite ready.
Tip it out and clean the roots. Slide the plant out, crumble off the old soil, and trim any black, mushy or dead roots with clean snips.
Pot into dry mix. Set pelargonium crispum at its original depth in dry gritty mix, firming gently. Do not bury the stem deeper than it was.
Wait a week before watering. Leave it completely dry and out of harsh sun for about 7 days so any damaged roots callus. Only then water lightly.

Aftercare

Keep pelargonium crispum completely dry and out of fierce sun for about a week so any nicked roots callus before they meet moisture; watering a freshly repotted succulent is the classic way to rot it. Then resume the normal lean, dry rhythm. Do not fertilise for about 3 weeks — fresh mix already carries nutrients and feeding freshly disturbed roots scorches them.

The right soil mix for pelargonium crispum

Pelargonium crispum wants very free-draining loam or potting mix with grit or perlite. A lean, gritty peat-free mix suits its small-leaved, drought-adapted nature. Neutral to slightly alkaline pH and excellent drainage are essential; avoid rich, water-holding composts. Always use fresh mix when you repot — reusing old, broken-down soil reintroduces the compaction and poor drainage you are repotting to fix.

Repotting pelargonium crispum — frequently asked questions

How often should you repot pelargonium crispum?

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix for pelargonium crispum. Repot pelargonium crispum every 2–3 years into a snug pot of very free-draining loam or potting mix with grit or perlite, ideally in spring or summer. Let it sit in dry soil and do not water for about a week afterwards so any nicked roots can callus. Over-potting and watering straight away is what rots succulents.

What size pot does pelargonium crispum need?

When is the best time of year to repot pelargonium crispum?

Should you water pelargonium crispum after repotting?

No — not straight away. Repot pelargonium crispum into dry mix and wait about a week before the first watering so any damaged roots callus over. Watering a freshly repotted succulent is the single most common way to rot one.

Should you fertilise pelargonium crispum after repotting?

Not immediately. Wait about 3 weeks after repotting pelargonium crispum. Fresh mix already contains nutrients, and feeding freshly cut or disturbed roots burns them. Resume your normal feeding routine once you see new growth.