Repotting guide

When & how to repot Hairy-fruited Draba (Draba lasiocarpa)

Also called Hairy-fruited Draba, Hairy-fruited Whitlowgrass.

More about hairy-fruited draba

About Hairy-fruited Draba

Draba lasiocarpa · also called Hairy-fruited Draba, Hairy-fruited Whitlowgrass · flowering

Hairy-fruited Draba is a cushion-forming alpine from limestone mountains in southeastern Europe, distinguished by its downy, hairy seed pods. It produces masses of bright yellow flowers in early spring, held on short stems above tight rosettes of grey-green, hair-fringed leaves. An excellent choice for alpine troughs, scree beds, and rock crevices with free drainage.

Mature size: 10–15 cm tall in flower; 15–25 cm wide

Watch for — Vine weevil grubs: Root destruction by vine weevil larvae causes wilting and cushion collapse. Check roots at repotting and apply biological nematode control (Steinernema kraussei) in spring and autumn.

How to tell hairy-fruited draba needs repotting

Repotting on a calendar is less reliable than reading the plant. For hairy-fruited draba, watch for these signs:

Roots growing out of the drainage holes, or the rootball lifting the plant proud of the rim.
Soil that has shrunk away from the pot sides and no longer holds water.
The pot is unstable because the plant has grown top-heavy.
Old, compacted, broken-down mix that stays wet too long — for a succulent that is a rot risk, so refresh it even if the pot size is fine.

For the underlying biology of a pot-bound root system and why it stalls a plant, see our guide to spotting and fixing a root-bound plant.

How often to repot hairy-fruited draba

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix. Hairy-fruited Draba's growth habit — cushion-forming evergreen alpine perennial; rosettes of hairy grey-green leaves forming a dome 5–10 cm tall at rest, with flower stems to 12 cm. — sets the pace. Hairy-fruited Draba is a cushion-forming alpine from limestone mountains in southeastern Europe, distinguished by its downy, hairy seed pods. It produces masses of bright yellow flowers in early spring, held on short stems above tight rosettes of grey-green, hair-fringed leaves. An excellent choice for alpine troughs, scree beds, and rock crevices with free drainage.

What size pot to step hairy-fruited draba up to

Use a pot only one size up — or even the same pot with fresh gritty mix if the roots have room. Hairy-fruited Draba stores water and rots in a large pot of slow-drying soil. A tight terracotta pot that dries fast is far safer than a generous plastic one. Never up-pot a succulent by several sizes.

Not sure of the exact diameter? Our pot size calculator takes the current pot and root spread and tells you the right next size — it deliberately recommends a single step up, never a big jump.

The best time of year to repot hairy-fruited draba

Spring or summer, while hairy-fruited draba is in active growth and warm, is best — roots recover fastest then, and the plant is not sitting in cool damp soil. Avoid repotting a succulent in winter dormancy.

Step-by-step: repotting hairy-fruited draba

Repot dry. Do not water hairy-fruited draba for several days first. Working with dry roots and dry mix dramatically lowers the rot risk for a succulent.
Pick a snug, fast-draining pot. Choose terracotta one size up at most, with a drainage hole. Have gritty sharply drained, gritty limestone alpine mix ready.
Tip it out and clean the roots. Slide the plant out, crumble off the old soil, and trim any black, mushy or dead roots with clean snips.
Pot into dry mix. Set hairy-fruited draba at its original depth in dry gritty mix, firming gently. Do not bury the stem deeper than it was.
Wait a week before watering. Leave it completely dry and out of harsh sun for about 7 days so any damaged roots callus. Only then water lightly.

Aftercare

Keep hairy-fruited draba completely dry and out of fierce sun for about a week so any nicked roots callus before they meet moisture; watering a freshly repotted succulent is the classic way to rot it. Then resume the normal lean, dry rhythm. Do not fertilise for about 3 weeks — fresh mix already carries nutrients and feeding freshly disturbed roots scorches them.

The right soil mix for hairy-fruited draba

Hairy-fruited Draba wants sharply drained, gritty limestone alpine mix. A mix of 50% coarse grit or crushed limestone, 25% loam, and 25% leaf mould with a pH of 7.0–7.5 is ideal. The species grows naturally in calcareous screes and limestone crevices in the Balkans. Always use fresh mix when you repot — reusing old, broken-down soil reintroduces the compaction and poor drainage you are repotting to fix.

Repotting hairy-fruited draba — frequently asked questions

How often should you repot hairy-fruited draba?

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix for hairy-fruited draba. Repot hairy-fruited draba every 2–3 years into a snug pot of sharply drained, gritty limestone alpine mix, ideally in spring or summer. Let it sit in dry soil and do not water for about a week afterwards so any nicked roots can callus. Over-potting and watering straight away is what rots succulents.

What size pot does hairy-fruited draba need?

When is the best time of year to repot hairy-fruited draba?

Should you water hairy-fruited draba after repotting?

No — not straight away. Repot hairy-fruited draba into dry mix and wait about a week before the first watering so any damaged roots callus over. Watering a freshly repotted succulent is the single most common way to rot one.

Should you fertilise hairy-fruited draba after repotting?

Not immediately. Wait about 3 weeks after repotting hairy-fruited draba. Fresh mix already contains nutrients, and feeding freshly cut or disturbed roots burns them. Resume your normal feeding routine once you see new growth.