Repotting guide

When & how to repot Cotyledon Orbiculata (Cotyledon orbiculata)

Also called pig's ear, round-leafed navel wort, silver crown.

More about cotyledon orbiculata

About Cotyledon Orbiculata

Cotyledon orbiculata · also called pig's ear, round-leafed navel wort · houseplant

Cotyledon orbiculata, or pig's ear, is a robust South African shrub with thick, paddle-shaped grey-green leaves dusted in chalky white and often edged in red. It forms a stout, woody-stemmed bush topped by clusters of orange, bell-shaped flowers. Tough and drought-hardy, it needs full light and sharp drainage. All parts are toxic to pets, containing cardiac glycosides.

Mature size: Typically 60-100 cm (2-3 ft) tall and wide; some forms reach 1.3 m (4 ft). Leaves 5-13 cm (2-5 in) long.

Watch for — Stretching and flopping: In low light the stems elongate and the heavy leaves cause the plant to flop. Move it into full sun and prune leggy stems; rooted cuttings rebuild a denser shrub.

How to tell cotyledon orbiculata needs repotting

Repotting on a calendar is less reliable than reading the plant. For cotyledon orbiculata, watch for these signs:

Roots growing out of the drainage holes, or the rootball lifting the plant proud of the rim.
Soil that has shrunk away from the pot sides and no longer holds water.
The pot is unstable because the plant has grown top-heavy.
Old, compacted, broken-down mix that stays wet too long — for a succulent that is a rot risk, so refresh it even if the pot size is fine.

For the underlying biology of a pot-bound root system and why it stalls a plant, see our guide to spotting and fixing a root-bound plant.

How often to repot cotyledon orbiculata

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix. Cotyledon Orbiculata's growth habit — upright, branching evergreen shrub with stout woody stems and thick paddle leaves, forming a rounded bush. mature plants send up tall stalks of pendulous orange tubular flowers in summer. — sets the pace. Cotyledon orbiculata, or pig's ear, is a robust South African shrub with thick, paddle-shaped grey-green leaves dusted in chalky white and often edged in red. It forms a stout, woody-stemmed bush topped by clusters of orange, bell-shaped flowers. Tough and drought-hardy, it needs full light and sharp drainage. All parts are toxic to pets, containing cardiac glycosides.

What size pot to step cotyledon orbiculata up to

Use a pot only one size up — or even the same pot with fresh gritty mix if the roots have room. Cotyledon Orbiculata stores water and rots in a large pot of slow-drying soil. A tight terracotta pot that dries fast is far safer than a generous plastic one. Never up-pot a succulent by several sizes.

Not sure of the exact diameter? Our pot size calculator takes the current pot and root spread and tells you the right next size — it deliberately recommends a single step up, never a big jump.

The best time of year to repot cotyledon orbiculata

Spring or summer, while cotyledon orbiculata is in active growth and warm, is best — roots recover fastest then, and the plant is not sitting in cool damp soil. Avoid repotting a succulent in winter dormancy.

Step-by-step: repotting cotyledon orbiculata

Repot dry. Do not water cotyledon orbiculata for several days first. Working with dry roots and dry mix dramatically lowers the rot risk for a succulent.
Pick a snug, fast-draining pot. Choose terracotta one size up at most, with a drainage hole. Have gritty gritty, fast-draining cactus and succulent mix ready.
Tip it out and clean the roots. Slide the plant out, crumble off the old soil, and trim any black, mushy or dead roots with clean snips.
Pot into dry mix. Set cotyledon orbiculata at its original depth in dry gritty mix, firming gently. Do not bury the stem deeper than it was.
Wait a week before watering. Leave it completely dry and out of harsh sun for about 7 days so any damaged roots callus. Only then water lightly.

Aftercare

Keep cotyledon orbiculata completely dry and out of fierce sun for about a week so any nicked roots callus before they meet moisture; watering a freshly repotted succulent is the classic way to rot it. Then resume the normal lean, dry rhythm. Do not fertilise for about 3 weeks — fresh mix already carries nutrients and feeding freshly disturbed roots scorches them.

The right soil mix for cotyledon orbiculata

Cotyledon Orbiculata wants gritty, fast-draining cactus and succulent mix. Use cactus or succulent soil with 30-50% added pumice, perlite or coarse grit. It needs excellent drainage and rots in heavy, damp soil. A deep terracotta pot suits its woody, shrubby root system. Always use fresh mix when you repot — reusing old, broken-down soil reintroduces the compaction and poor drainage you are repotting to fix.

Repotting cotyledon orbiculata — frequently asked questions

How often should you repot cotyledon orbiculata?

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix for cotyledon orbiculata. Repot cotyledon orbiculata every 2–3 years into a snug pot of gritty, fast-draining cactus and succulent mix, ideally in spring or summer. Let it sit in dry soil and do not water for about a week afterwards so any nicked roots can callus. Over-potting and watering straight away is what rots succulents.

What size pot does cotyledon orbiculata need?

When is the best time of year to repot cotyledon orbiculata?

Should you water cotyledon orbiculata after repotting?

No — not straight away. Repot cotyledon orbiculata into dry mix and wait about a week before the first watering so any damaged roots callus over. Watering a freshly repotted succulent is the single most common way to rot one.

Should you fertilise cotyledon orbiculata after repotting?

Not immediately. Wait about 3 weeks after repotting cotyledon orbiculata. Fresh mix already contains nutrients, and feeding freshly cut or disturbed roots burns them. Resume your normal feeding routine once you see new growth.