Repotting guide

When & how to repot Cordyline australis (Cordyline australis)

Also called cabbage tree, New Zealand cabbage palm.

More about cordyline australis

About Cordyline australis

Cordyline australis · also called cabbage tree, New Zealand cabbage palm · tropical

Cordyline australis, the New Zealand cabbage tree, is a palm-like evergreen with a fountain of narrow, sword-shaped leaves atop a slender trunk. Hardier than tropical ti plants, it tolerates cool, breezy conditions and even light frost once established. It enjoys full sun to bright light, free-draining soil and moderate water, making a striking architectural patio or border specimen.

Mature size: Outdoors reaches 3-10 m tall over many years; in containers and indoors typically kept to 1-2 m.

Watch for — Leaf spot and slime flux: Cold, wet winters can trigger fungal or bacterial spotting and sudden leaf collapse. Improve drainage and remove badly affected foliage.

How to tell cordyline australis needs repotting

Repotting on a calendar is less reliable than reading the plant. For cordyline australis, watch for these signs:

Roots growing out of the drainage holes, or the rootball lifting the plant proud of the rim.
Soil that has shrunk away from the pot sides and no longer holds water.
The pot is unstable because the plant has grown top-heavy.
Old, compacted, broken-down mix that stays wet too long — for a succulent that is a rot risk, so refresh it even if the pot size is fine.

For the underlying biology of a pot-bound root system and why it stalls a plant, see our guide to spotting and fixing a root-bound plant.

How often to repot cordyline australis

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix. Cordyline australis's growth habit — single-trunked evergreen tree, branching with age into a candelabra of leaf-tufted heads; juvenile plants are an unbranched rosette of arching strap leaves. — sets the pace. Cordyline australis, the New Zealand cabbage tree, is a palm-like evergreen with a fountain of narrow, sword-shaped leaves atop a slender trunk. Hardier than tropical ti plants, it tolerates cool, breezy conditions and even light frost once established. It enjoys full sun to bright light, free-draining soil and moderate water, making a striking architectural patio or border specimen.

What size pot to step cordyline australis up to

Use a pot only one size up — or even the same pot with fresh gritty mix if the roots have room. Cordyline australis stores water and rots in a large pot of slow-drying soil. A tight terracotta pot that dries fast is far safer than a generous plastic one. Never up-pot a succulent by several sizes.

Not sure of the exact diameter? Our pot size calculator takes the current pot and root spread and tells you the right next size — it deliberately recommends a single step up, never a big jump.

The best time of year to repot cordyline australis

Spring or summer, while cordyline australis is in active growth and warm, is best — roots recover fastest then, and the plant is not sitting in cool damp soil. Avoid repotting a succulent in winter dormancy.

Step-by-step: repotting cordyline australis

Repot dry. Do not water cordyline australis for several days first. Working with dry roots and dry mix dramatically lowers the rot risk for a succulent.
Pick a snug, fast-draining pot. Choose terracotta one size up at most, with a drainage hole. Have gritty free-draining loam or gritty potting mix ready.
Tip it out and clean the roots. Slide the plant out, crumble off the old soil, and trim any black, mushy or dead roots with clean snips.
Pot into dry mix. Set cordyline australis at its original depth in dry gritty mix, firming gently. Do not bury the stem deeper than it was.
Wait a week before watering. Leave it completely dry and out of harsh sun for about 7 days so any damaged roots callus. Only then water lightly.

Aftercare

Keep cordyline australis completely dry and out of fierce sun for about a week so any nicked roots callus before they meet moisture; watering a freshly repotted succulent is the classic way to rot it. Then resume the normal lean, dry rhythm. Do not fertilise for about 3 weeks — fresh mix already carries nutrients and feeding freshly disturbed roots scorches them.

The right soil mix for cordyline australis

Cordyline australis wants free-draining loam or gritty potting mix. Tolerates a wide range of soils provided drainage is good; add grit or sharp sand to potting compost. It copes with sandy and chalky ground and coastal exposure, but rots in heavy, waterlogged soil. Always use fresh mix when you repot — reusing old, broken-down soil reintroduces the compaction and poor drainage you are repotting to fix.

Repotting cordyline australis — frequently asked questions

How often should you repot cordyline australis?

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix for cordyline australis. Repot cordyline australis every 2–3 years into a snug pot of free-draining loam or gritty potting mix, ideally in spring or summer. Let it sit in dry soil and do not water for about a week afterwards so any nicked roots can callus. Over-potting and watering straight away is what rots succulents.

What size pot does cordyline australis need?

When is the best time of year to repot cordyline australis?

Should you water cordyline australis after repotting?

No — not straight away. Repot cordyline australis into dry mix and wait about a week before the first watering so any damaged roots callus over. Watering a freshly repotted succulent is the single most common way to rot one.

Should you fertilise cordyline australis after repotting?

Not immediately. Wait about 3 weeks after repotting cordyline australis. Fresh mix already contains nutrients, and feeding freshly cut or disturbed roots burns them. Resume your normal feeding routine once you see new growth.