Repotting guide

When & how to repot Caucasian Draba (Draba bruniifolia)

Also called Caucasian Draba, Mossy Draba, Brunnifolia Whitlow Grass.

More about caucasian draba

About Caucasian Draba

Draba bruniifolia · also called Caucasian Draba, Mossy Draba · flowering

Draba bruniifolia is a tiny, bun-forming evergreen perennial from the Caucasus and adjacent mountains of Turkey and Iran, growing in rocky scree and crevices at subalpine to alpine elevations. It forms dense mounds of deep green, softly hairy rosettes and bears clusters of bright yellow flowers in early spring, making it one of the most reliably floriferous small drabas in cultivation. Perfect drainage and full sun are essential; it performs best in cool-summer climates, making it well suited to UK troughs and alpine beds. Toxicity data are absent from the ASPCA database; classified as mildly-toxic as a precautionary measure.

Mature size: 2–5 cm tall and 15–20 cm across.

Watch for — Crown and root rot: Wet, poorly drained soil — especially over winter — rapidly kills the central rosette; plant in a raised scree bed or vertical rock crevice and mulch the crown with fine grit.

How to tell caucasian draba needs repotting

Repotting on a calendar is less reliable than reading the plant. For caucasian draba, watch for these signs:

Roots growing out of the drainage holes, or the rootball lifting the plant proud of the rim.
Soil that has shrunk away from the pot sides and no longer holds water.
The pot is unstable because the plant has grown top-heavy.
Old, compacted, broken-down mix that stays wet too long — for a succulent that is a rot risk, so refresh it even if the pot size is fine.

For the underlying biology of a pot-bound root system and why it stalls a plant, see our guide to spotting and fixing a root-bound plant.

How often to repot caucasian draba

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix. Caucasian Draba's growth habit — compact, bun-shaped cushion perennial forming a dense mound of tiny hairy evergreen rosettes. — sets the pace. Draba bruniifolia is a tiny, bun-forming evergreen perennial from the Caucasus and adjacent mountains of Turkey and Iran, growing in rocky scree and crevices at subalpine to alpine elevations. It forms dense mounds of deep green, softly hairy rosettes and bears clusters of bright yellow flowers in early spring, making it one of the most reliably floriferous small drabas in cultivation. Perfect drainage and full sun are essential; it performs best in cool-summer climates, making it well suited to UK troughs and alpine beds. Toxicity data are absent from the ASPCA database; classified as mildly-toxic as a precautionary measure.

What size pot to step caucasian draba up to

Use a pot only one size up — or even the same pot with fresh gritty mix if the roots have room. Caucasian Draba stores water and rots in a large pot of slow-drying soil. A tight terracotta pot that dries fast is far safer than a generous plastic one. Never up-pot a succulent by several sizes.

Not sure of the exact diameter? Our pot size calculator takes the current pot and root spread and tells you the right next size — it deliberately recommends a single step up, never a big jump.

The best time of year to repot caucasian draba

Spring or summer, while caucasian draba is in active growth and warm, is best — roots recover fastest then, and the plant is not sitting in cool damp soil. Avoid repotting a succulent in winter dormancy.

Step-by-step: repotting caucasian draba

Repot dry. Do not water caucasian draba for several days first. Working with dry roots and dry mix dramatically lowers the rot risk for a succulent.
Pick a snug, fast-draining pot. Choose terracotta one size up at most, with a drainage hole. Have gritty sandy, sharply drained gritty soil ready.
Tip it out and clean the roots. Slide the plant out, crumble off the old soil, and trim any black, mushy or dead roots with clean snips.
Pot into dry mix. Set caucasian draba at its original depth in dry gritty mix, firming gently. Do not bury the stem deeper than it was.
Wait a week before watering. Leave it completely dry and out of harsh sun for about 7 days so any damaged roots callus. Only then water lightly.

Aftercare

Keep caucasian draba completely dry and out of fierce sun for about a week so any nicked roots callus before they meet moisture; watering a freshly repotted succulent is the classic way to rot it. Then resume the normal lean, dry rhythm. Do not fertilise for about 3 weeks — fresh mix already carries nutrients and feeding freshly disturbed roots scorches them.

The right soil mix for caucasian draba

Caucasian Draba wants sandy, sharply drained gritty soil. Thrives in lean, sandy or gravelly soil with neutral to slightly alkaline pH; rich soils produce over-lush, disease-prone growth and obscure the natural compact form. Always use fresh mix when you repot — reusing old, broken-down soil reintroduces the compaction and poor drainage you are repotting to fix.

Repotting caucasian draba — frequently asked questions

How often should you repot caucasian draba?

Every 2–3 years, into bone-dry mix for caucasian draba. Repot caucasian draba every 2–3 years into a snug pot of sandy, sharply drained gritty soil, ideally in spring or summer. Let it sit in dry soil and do not water for about a week afterwards so any nicked roots can callus. Over-potting and watering straight away is what rots succulents.

What size pot does caucasian draba need?

When is the best time of year to repot caucasian draba?

Should you water caucasian draba after repotting?

No — not straight away. Repot caucasian draba into dry mix and wait about a week before the first watering so any damaged roots callus over. Watering a freshly repotted succulent is the single most common way to rot one.

Should you fertilise caucasian draba after repotting?

Not immediately. Wait about 3 weeks after repotting caucasian draba. Fresh mix already contains nutrients, and feeding freshly cut or disturbed roots burns them. Resume your normal feeding routine once you see new growth.