Campfire Crassula (Red Pagoda) problems — and how to fix them

Soft, mushy, blackening stems near the base signal rot. Caused by too-frequent watering or poorly draining soil. Let soil dry fully between waterings, use a gritty mix and a pot with drainage, and behead and re-root healthy tips if rot has set in.

In too little light the plant turns green, stems elongate, and leaves space out. This is the single most common indoor complaint. Move it to direct sun or add a grow light; the fiery colour returns with strong light and cooler temperatures.

Small white cottony insects cluster at stem joints and leaf undersides. Wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, or treat with insecticidal soap or diluted neem oil, repeating until clear.

Plants shifted abruptly from indoors into intense sun can develop tan or brown scorched patches that don't heal. Acclimate gradually over a couple of weeks, and provide light afternoon shade during extreme summer heat.

Without bright light and a cool/dry 'stress' period the leaves revert to plain green rather than red-orange. More direct sun, cooler nights, and leaner watering bring out the colour, which is usually most intense in winter.