Growli

Plant care

Giant Taro (Giant Elephant Ear) care

Alocasia macrorrhizos

Also called Giant Elephant Ear, Upright Elephant Ear.

RHS H1bUSDA 9b-11Toxic to petsIndoor Outdoors in the tropics 3-5 m tall with leaves up to 1 m long

Watering rhythm

4-7days

Keep evenly moist; water when the top 2-3 cm is dry, often every 4-7 days

Light

Bright indirect light (just back from a sunny window)

Soil

Rich, moisture-retentive but draining mix

Humidity

60-80%

Temp

18-30°C

Pet safety

Toxic to pets

Mature size

Outdoors in the tropics 3-5 m tall with leaves up to 1 m long

Care at a glance

Light

Bright but filtered. Giant Taro burns within days in unfiltered south-facing summer sun, and stops growing within months in deep shade. Thrives in bright indirect light and can take some gentle direct morning sun once acclimated; harsh midday sun scorches leaves. Indoors give it the brightest spot available. Too little light produces small, floppy leaves and weak, stretched stems. If you only have a south window, set the plant back 1.5 m or hang a sheer curtain — both knock the intensity down into the right range.

Watering

Watering giant taro: keep evenly moist; water when the top 2-3 cm is dry, often every 4-7 days. The number that matters isn't the day of the week — it's how dry the top 2-3 cm of the pot feels. A finger in the soil tells you more than a watering app. After every watering, tip the saucer. A genuine bog-margin plant, it is far thirstier than other Alocasias and likes consistently moist (never waterlogged) soil. Let only the surface dry between waterings. It droops quickly if too dry; reduce watering in winter but never let it dry out fully.

Soil and pot

Giant Taro grows best in rich, moisture-retentive but draining mix. Use a fertile, organic-rich potting mix with added perlite and bark so it holds moisture yet still drains. Unlike most Alocasias it tolerates heavier, water-retentive soil because of its bog origins, but standing water still rots the rhizome. A pot with a working drainage hole is non-negotiable for this species — even free-draining mix will turn soggy in a closed planter. If you love the look of a decorative pot without a hole, use it as a cachepot around an inner nursery pot you can lift out to water.

Humidity and temperature

Giant Taro sits happiest at around 60-80% humidity and 18-30°C (65-86°F). Loves high humidity; the big leaves brown at the edges in dry indoor air below 50%. A humidifier is the most reliable fix for such a large plant. Outdoors in warm, humid climates it flourishes without intervention. If you keep the room above 18 year-round and avoid placing the plant near a cold draught, a hot radiator, or an air-conditioning vent, you have already handled the two biggest indoor stressors.

Fertilising

Feed giant taro sparingly. A heavy feeder: feed every two to four weeks through spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertiliser at full or half strength to fuel its fast, large growth. Reduce or stop feeding in autumn and winter. Adequate feeding is key to producing its full-sized leaves. Skip fertiliser entirely on a stressed, recently-repotted, or actively wilting plant — fertiliser salts make damage worse, not better. Wait for a round of healthy new growth before resuming a feeding rhythm.

Common problems

Below are the issues we see most often on giant taro in the Growli community. Each is annotated with the most common cause so you know where to start.

  • Drooping or wiltingMost often underwatering in this thirsty bog plant, or sudden cold; keep the soil evenly moist and warm, and it usually perks back up.
  • Browning leaf edgesLow humidity or dry soil crisps the large leaf margins; raise humidity with a humidifier and maintain consistent moisture.
  • Spider mitesDry air invites mites that stipple and bronze the leaves; raise humidity, wipe the foliage and treat with insecticidal soap or neem.
  • Rhizome rotCold, waterlogged soil rots the rhizome despite the plant's love of moisture; ensure the pot drains and ease off water in winter.

Propagation

Propagate by division of the rhizome or by separating offsets (pups) that form at the base, each with roots and a growing point. Pot divisions into warm, moist, rich soil. It can also be grown from corms or, more slowly, from seed where available. Propagation is the cheapest, most satisfying way to expand a collection — and it doubles as insurance against losing a mature plant to an accident. Take a backup cutting once the parent is established and healthy.

Toxicity to pets

Giant Taro is toxic to pets. ASPCA lists Alocasia (elephant's ear) as toxic to cats, dogs and horses. All parts contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals; chewing causes intense oral burning, irritation of mouth, tongue and lips, profuse drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. The raw rhizome is especially irritant and must be cooked before any culinary use. If you keep cats, dogs, or curious children in the house, weigh placement carefully — a high shelf or a hanging planter is enough for casual safety. For severe ingestion incidents, call your local vet and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (in the US, 888-426-4435).

Pet-safety status is sourced from the ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plant List, which catalogues the most-asked-about plants for cats, dogs, and horses.

Giant Taro care — frequently asked questions

What is the common name for Alocasia macrorrhizos?

Alocasia macrorrhizos is most commonly called Giant Taro, but it is also known as Giant Elephant Ear, Upright Elephant Ear. The names refer to the same species, so care instructions for Giant Taro apply identically to anything sold as Giant Elephant Ear.

How much light does giant taro need?

Giant Taro grows best in bright indirect light (just back from a sunny window). Thrives in bright indirect light and can take some gentle direct morning sun once acclimated; harsh midday sun scorches leaves. Indoors give it the brightest spot available. Too little light produces small, floppy leaves and weak, stretched stems.

How often should I water giant taro?

Water giant taro keep evenly moist; water when the top 2-3 cm is dry, often every 4-7 days. A genuine bog-margin plant, it is far thirstier than other Alocasias and likes consistently moist (never waterlogged) soil. Let only the surface dry between waterings. It droops quickly if too dry; reduce watering in winter but never let it dry out fully. The finger-test (or lifting the pot to feel its weight) beats a fixed weekly calendar because pot size, light, and season all change how fast the soil dries.

Is giant taro toxic to cats and dogs?

Giant Taro is toxic to pets. ASPCA lists Alocasia (elephant's ear) as toxic to cats, dogs and horses. All parts contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals; chewing causes intense oral burning, irritation of mouth, tongue and lips, profuse drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. The raw rhizome is especially irritant and must be cooked before any culinary use.

What USDA hardiness zone does giant taro grow in?

Giant Taro is rated for USDA zone 9b-11 (lift or mulch the rhizome below zone 9) and RHS hardiness H1b. Outside that range, grow it as a container plant that overwinters indoors before the first hard frost.

Giant Taro deep-dive guides

Every aspect of giant taro care, each with its own calibrated guide:

Featured in these plant shortlists

Giant Taro qualifies for 3 curated Growli shortlists — each one filtered objectively from our structured plant-care library, so the selection is consistent and checkable:

Related guides

Giant Taro is also commonly called Giant Elephant Ear or Upright Elephant Ear.