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Alocasia Sarawakensis (Yucatan Princess) care

Alocasia sarawakensis

Also called Yucatan Princess, Sarawak alocasia.

RHS H1bUSDA 10-12Toxic to petsIndoor Can reach 1.2-1.8 m tall and wide indoors

Watering rhythm

5-8days

When the top 3-5 cm of mix is dry, roughly every 5-8 days in growth

Light

Bright indirect light (just back from a sunny window)

Soil

Chunky, fast-draining aroid mix

Humidity

60-80%

Temp

18-29°C

Pet safety

Toxic to pets

Mature size

Can reach 1.2-1.8 m tall and wide indoors

Care at a glance

Light

In the wild alocasia sarawakensis grows on the bright edge of a forest canopy, not in the canopy and not in the open. Indoors, that translates to within a metre of an unobstructed window, sheer curtain optional. Bright, filtered light suits it best; it can take some gentle direct sun once acclimated. Strong midday sun scorches the leaves, while low light gives weak, floppy petioles and smaller foliage. The fastest test: a hand held at the leaf casts a soft-edged shadow at noon — sharp shadow means too much sun, no shadow means too little light.

Watering

Aim for when the top 3-5 cm of mix is dry, roughly every 5-8 days in growth for alocasia sarawakensis, but treat that as a starting point rather than a rule. A south-facing summer windowsill will dry the pot twice as fast as a north-facing winter room. Lift the pot; if it feels noticeably lighter than it did wet, water it. Keep evenly moist during active growth, watering deeply and letting excess drain away. This vigorous grower drinks heavily in warm months but must not sit in water. Reduce watering through cooler, slower winter months.

Soil and pot

Alocasia Sarawakensis grows best in chunky, fast-draining aroid mix. Use a rich, airy blend of coco coir or peat with bark, perlite and compost. The mix should hold moisture yet drain rapidly so the large rhizome never sits wet, which would invite rot. A pot with a working drainage hole is non-negotiable for this species — even free-draining mix will turn soggy in a closed planter. If you love the look of a decorative pot without a hole, use it as a cachepot around an inner nursery pot you can lift out to water.

Humidity and temperature

Alocasia Sarawakensis sits happiest at around 60-80% humidity and 18-29°C (65-84°F). Enjoys high humidity, though it tolerates average room humidity better than the delicate jewel alocasias. Below about 50% leaf edges may brown; a humidifier or grouping keeps it lush. If you keep the room above 18 year-round and avoid placing the plant near a cold draught, a hot radiator, or an air-conditioning vent, you have already handled the two biggest indoor stressors.

Fertilising

Feed alocasia sarawakensis sparingly. A hungry plant; feed every 2 weeks in spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertiliser at half to full strength, easing off in autumn and stopping in winter. Steady feeding supports its fast, large growth, but flush occasionally to clear salts. Skip fertiliser entirely on a stressed, recently-repotted, or actively wilting plant — fertiliser salts make damage worse, not better. Wait for a round of healthy new growth before resuming a feeding rhythm.

Common problems

Below are the issues we see most often on alocasia sarawakensis in the Growli community. Each is annotated with the most common cause so you know where to start.

  • Root or rhizome rotIts large rhizome rots fast in dense, soggy mix. Plant in a chunky aroid blend, water deeply but let the top layer dry, and ensure strong drainage.
  • Drooping, weak petiolesToo little light or underwatering leaves the big leaves unable to hold themselves up. Brighten the position and keep moisture consistent through growth.
  • Browning leaf marginsLow humidity, salt buildup, or erratic watering crisps the edges of the large leaves. Raise humidity, keep moisture even, and flush the soil periodically.
  • Spider mites and thripsPests target stressed or dry plants, stippling and distorting new leaves. Inspect regularly, raise humidity, and treat early with insecticidal soap or neem.

Propagation

Propagate by removing rooted basal offsets or dividing the rhizome in spring. Each division needs roots and a growth point; pot into fresh aroid mix and keep warm and humid. It can also be grown from seed where available, though offsets are far quicker. Propagation is the cheapest, most satisfying way to expand a collection — and it doubles as insurance against losing a mature plant to an accident. Take a backup cutting once the parent is established and healthy.

Toxicity to pets

Alocasia Sarawakensis is toxic to pets. Toxic to cats and dogs. The ASPCA lists Alocasia as toxic, with insoluble calcium oxalate crystals as the toxic principle. Chewing any part causes oral irritation, intense burning and swelling of the mouth, tongue and lips, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. Keep away from pets and children. If you keep cats, dogs, or curious children in the house, weigh placement carefully — a high shelf or a hanging planter is enough for casual safety. For severe ingestion incidents, call your local vet and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (in the US, 888-426-4435).

Pet-safety status is sourced from the ASPCA Toxic and Non-Toxic Plant List, which catalogues the most-asked-about plants for cats, dogs, and horses.

Alocasia Sarawakensis care — frequently asked questions

What is the common name for Alocasia sarawakensis?

Alocasia sarawakensis is most commonly called Alocasia Sarawakensis, but it is also known as Yucatan Princess, Sarawak alocasia. The names refer to the same species, so care instructions for Alocasia Sarawakensis apply identically to anything sold as Yucatan Princess.

How much light does alocasia sarawakensis need?

Alocasia Sarawakensis grows best in bright indirect light (just back from a sunny window). Bright, filtered light suits it best; it can take some gentle direct sun once acclimated. Strong midday sun scorches the leaves, while low light gives weak, floppy petioles and smaller foliage.

How often should I water alocasia sarawakensis?

Water alocasia sarawakensis when the top 3-5 cm of mix is dry, roughly every 5-8 days in growth. Keep evenly moist during active growth, watering deeply and letting excess drain away. This vigorous grower drinks heavily in warm months but must not sit in water. Reduce watering through cooler, slower winter months. The finger-test (or lifting the pot to feel its weight) beats a fixed weekly calendar because pot size, light, and season all change how fast the soil dries.

Is alocasia sarawakensis toxic to cats and dogs?

Alocasia Sarawakensis is toxic to pets. Toxic to cats and dogs. The ASPCA lists Alocasia as toxic, with insoluble calcium oxalate crystals as the toxic principle. Chewing any part causes oral irritation, intense burning and swelling of the mouth, tongue and lips, drooling, vomiting and difficulty swallowing. Keep away from pets and children.

What USDA hardiness zone does alocasia sarawakensis grow in?

Alocasia Sarawakensis is rated for USDA zone 10-12 (indoor in most US homes) and RHS hardiness H1b. Outside that range, grow it as a container plant that overwinters indoors before the first hard frost.

Alocasia Sarawakensis deep-dive guides

Every aspect of alocasia sarawakensis care, each with its own calibrated guide:

Featured in these plant shortlists

Alocasia Sarawakensis qualifies for 3 curated Growli shortlists — each one filtered objectively from our structured plant-care library, so the selection is consistent and checkable:

Related guides

Alocasia Sarawakensis is also commonly called Yucatan Princess or Sarawak alocasia.