How to get rid of thrips on tomatoes

What thrips look like on tomatoes

Silvery rasping marks and black faecal specks on upper leaves and fruit; concentric ring spots or necrotic streaks on fruit indicate tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV).

For the full set of thrips damage symptoms across host crops, see our Thrips identification page.

Why tomatoes attracts thrips

Western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) and tobacco thrips both vector TSWV to tomatoes. The virus replicates in the thrips midgut and is transmitted at every feeding stop, making early-season thrips control critical.

Severity for this combo: High — act quickly. When to act: Western flower thrips and tobacco thrips arrive on transplants or migrate from weedy field edges — manage them BEFORE planting. Once TSWV is in a plant, there is no cure.

Step-by-step control protocol

This is the integrated-pest-management protocol — non-chemical control first, biological and organic options second, conventional sprays only as a labelled last resort. Total cycle: about three weeks for most home cases.

1. Confirm the pest. Inspect the plant — look for silvery or bronze rasping marks on upper leaf surfaces. If unsure, photograph the affected area and open Growli for instant species ID.
2. Isolate where possible. Move container-grown tomatoes away from healthy plants. For outdoor beds, mark the affected row so you can monitor it daily.
3. Apply non-chemical control first. Blue or yellow sticky traps at canopy height
4. Add biological or organic spray. Thrips- and virus-free transplants are the single most important step. Add blue or yellow sticky traps, spinosad sprays at dusk, and TSWV-resistant cultivars in hotspot regions.
5. Repeat on schedule. Most thrips protocols need repeating every 5-7 days for three weeks to catch each new hatch. Egg-to-adult in 2-3 weeks. Pupation happens in soil, which is why a multi-tactic approach (foliar spray plus soil drench plus sticky traps) outperforms any single intervention.
6. Monitor and prevent recurrence. Inspect tomatoes weekly for the rest of the season. Remove weedy field edges and bridge crops that harbour thrips before transplanting

Best biological control for thrips on tomatoes

For greenhouse, polytunnel, conservatory, and indoor production on tomatoes, biological control gives long-term suppression without the residue or pollinator harm of synthetic sprays:

• Orius insidiosus (minute pirate bug) — single adult eats up to 40 western flower thrips per day; the gold standard for pepper banker-plant systems
• Amblyseius swirskii — predatory mite, effective on chilli thrips in peppers
• Neoseiulus cucumeris — predatory mite for cucumber and ornamental greenhouse use
• Steinernema feltiae nematodes — soil drench targets thrips pupae

Organic spray options

Spinosad gives strong thrips control while being relatively soft on Orius populations — apply at dusk to protect bees. Cyantraniliprole and spirotetramat are systemic options compatible with Orius but require label-dosing care. Pyrethrin is a knockdown option for severe outbreaks.

Prevention going forward

• Blue or yellow sticky traps at canopy height
• Remove weedy field edges and bridge crops that harbour thrips before transplanting
• Use thrips- and virus-free transplants — inspect every seedling
• Reflective mulch to disrupt incoming flights
• Maintain consistent watering; drought-stressed plants suffer more

Common mistakes when treating thrips on tomatoes

• Spraying once and walking away. Egg-to-adult in 2-3 weeks. Pupation happens in soil, which is why a multi-tactic approach (foliar spray plus soil drench plus sticky traps) outperforms any single intervention. A single spray misses everything that hatches afterwards — plan a 3-week protocol.
• Confusing the species. Tomatoes hosts several similar-looking pests. Confirm before treating; the wrong protocol wastes weeks. Open Growli for a confirmed ID.
• Spraying in midday heat. Insecticidal soap and horticultural oil burn leaves above 30 degC and on drought-stressed plants. Apply at dawn or dusk.
• Mixing biological control with broad-spectrum sprays. Pyrethroids and neonicotinoids wipe out predator releases. Use one strategy at a time.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get rid of thrips on tomatoes?

Thrips- and virus-free transplants are the single most important step. Add blue or yellow sticky traps, spinosad sprays at dusk, and TSWV-resistant cultivars in hotspot regions. Egg-to-adult in 2-3 weeks. Pupation happens in soil, which is why a multi-tactic approach (foliar spray plus soil drench plus sticky traps) outperforms any single intervention.

What do thrips look like on tomatoes?

Silvery rasping marks and black faecal specks on upper leaves and fruit; concentric ring spots or necrotic streaks on fruit indicate tomato spotted wilt virus (TSWV).

When should I treat thrips on tomatoes?

Western flower thrips and tobacco thrips arrive on transplants or migrate from weedy field edges — manage them BEFORE planting. Once TSWV is in a plant, there is no cure.

Why are thrips attracted to tomatoes?

Western flower thrips (Frankliniella occidentalis) and tobacco thrips both vector TSWV to tomatoes. The virus replicates in the thrips midgut and is transmitted at every feeding stop, making early-season thrips control critical.

What is the best biological control for thrips on tomatoes?

Orius insidiosus (minute pirate bug) — single adult eats up to 40 western flower thrips per day; the gold standard for pepper banker-plant systems. Thrips- and virus-free transplants are the single most important step. Add blue or yellow sticky traps, spinosad sprays at dusk, and TSWV-resistant cultivars in hotspot regions.

Will thrips on tomatoes spread to other plants?

Yes. Thrips from tomatoes typically migrate to nearby susceptible hosts — see the affected-crops list on the main thrips page. Quarantine, sticky traps, and weekly inspections of neighbouring plants are essential.

Are pesticides safe to use on tomatoes?

Insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, neem oil, and Bti are the safest options for edible and indoor tomatoes. Always read the product label and follow manufacturer's PPE, dosage, and re-entry guidance. Pesticide approvals change — confirm via the UK HSE pesticide register or US EPA before use.

Sources

Combo-specific guidance sourced from US Cooperative Extension publications (UC IPM, NC State, UMD, UMN, Penn State, CSU, UF/IFAS EDIS), Clemson HGIC fact sheets, Royal Horticultural Society guidance, and Cornell NYS IPM Biocontrol fact sheets. Reviewed by the Growli editorial team in May 2026.

Keep going

• All crops affected by thrips
• How to grow tomatoes — full guide
• Tomatoes plant-care reference
• Tomatoes companion plants
• All 8 garden pests covered in this guide
• Garden pest identification — complete article