How to get rid of spider mites on tomatoes

What spider mites look like on tomatoes

Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) on tomato lower leaves first — yellow speckling, bronze sand-blasted look, fine webbing in leaf axils and between fruit clusters.

For the full set of spider mites damage symptoms across host crops, see our Spider mites identification page.

Why tomatoes attracts spider mites

Tomato's glandular trichomes are no defence against T. urticae, and the hot, dry, sheltered conditions of midsummer staked tomatoes are ideal for mite reproduction. Mites can complete a generation in 7 days.

Severity for this combo: High — act quickly. When to act: From mid-summer onwards during hot dry weather (above 27 degC). Inspect lower leaves weekly; mite damage moves up the plant fast once it starts.

Step-by-step control protocol

This is the integrated-pest-management protocol — non-chemical control first, biological and organic options second, conventional sprays only as a labelled last resort. Total cycle: about three weeks for most home cases.

1. Confirm the pest. Inspect the plant — look for fine yellow or bronze stippling on upper leaf surfaces. If unsure, photograph the affected area and open Growli for instant species ID.
2. Isolate where possible. Move container-grown tomatoes away from healthy plants. For outdoor beds, mark the affected row so you can monitor it daily.
3. Apply non-chemical control first. Raise humidity (mist foliage, group plants, run a humidifier indoors)
4. Add biological or organic spray. Hose the foliage hard every 3-4 days plus weekly insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Raise humidity around the plants. In greenhouses, release Phytoseiulus persimilis at the first sign of stippling.
5. Repeat on schedule. Most spider mites protocols need repeating every 5-7 days for three weeks to catch each new hatch. A spider mite egg-to-adult cycle can run as short as 7 days at 27 degC. Populations double every 2-3 days in hot, dry weather, which is why outbreaks seem to appear overnight.
6. Monitor and prevent recurrence. Inspect tomatoes weekly for the rest of the season. Strong water spray underneath every leaf — repeat every 3-4 days

Best biological control for spider mites on tomatoes

For greenhouse, polytunnel, conservatory, and indoor production on tomatoes, biological control gives long-term suppression without the residue or pollinator harm of synthetic sprays:

• Phytoseiulus persimilis — specialist predatory mite, gold standard for two-spotted spider mite (62-80 degF, 50-70 percent RH)
• Neoseiulus californicus — tolerates drier conditions than P. persimilis
• Amblyseius andersoni — general predatory mite useful for early-season releases
• Stethorus punctillum — small ladybird that feeds exclusively on mites

Organic spray options

Horticultural oil and insecticidal soap target mite eggs and adults — apply in cool morning hours, never above 30 degC or on drought-stressed plants. Avoid broad-spectrum pyrethroids, which wipe out the predators that would otherwise crash the population. Sulfur dust is approved on some crops but phytotoxic to cucurbits.

Prevention going forward

• Raise humidity (mist foliage, group plants, run a humidifier indoors)
• Strong water spray underneath every leaf — repeat every 3-4 days
• Keep plants well watered; drought stress amplifies damage
• Quarantine and isolate infested plants before treating
• Prune out and bin heavily webbed leaves

Common mistakes when treating spider mites on tomatoes

• Spraying once and walking away. A spider mite egg-to-adult cycle can run as short as 7 days at 27 degC. Populations double every 2-3 days in hot, dry weather, which is why outbreaks seem to appear overnight. A single spray misses everything that hatches afterwards — plan a 3-week protocol.
• Confusing the species. Tomatoes hosts several similar-looking pests. Confirm before treating; the wrong protocol wastes weeks. Open Growli for a confirmed ID.
• Spraying in midday heat. Insecticidal soap and horticultural oil burn leaves above 30 degC and on drought-stressed plants. Apply at dawn or dusk.
• Mixing biological control with broad-spectrum sprays. Pyrethroids and neonicotinoids wipe out predator releases. Use one strategy at a time.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get rid of spider mites on tomatoes?

Hose the foliage hard every 3-4 days plus weekly insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Raise humidity around the plants. In greenhouses, release Phytoseiulus persimilis at the first sign of stippling. A spider mite egg-to-adult cycle can run as short as 7 days at 27 degC. Populations double every 2-3 days in hot, dry weather, which is why outbreaks seem to appear overnight.

What do spider mites look like on tomatoes?

Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) on tomato lower leaves first — yellow speckling, bronze sand-blasted look, fine webbing in leaf axils and between fruit clusters.

When should I treat spider mites on tomatoes?

From mid-summer onwards during hot dry weather (above 27 degC). Inspect lower leaves weekly; mite damage moves up the plant fast once it starts.

Why are spider mites attracted to tomatoes?

Tomato's glandular trichomes are no defence against T. urticae, and the hot, dry, sheltered conditions of midsummer staked tomatoes are ideal for mite reproduction. Mites can complete a generation in 7 days.

What is the best biological control for spider mites on tomatoes?

Phytoseiulus persimilis — specialist predatory mite, gold standard for two-spotted spider mite (62-80 degF, 50-70 percent RH). Hose the foliage hard every 3-4 days plus weekly insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Raise humidity around the plants. In greenhouses, release Phytoseiulus persimilis at the first sign of stippling.

Will spider mites on tomatoes spread to other plants?

Yes. Spider mites from tomatoes typically migrate to nearby susceptible hosts — see the affected-crops list on the main spider mites page. Quarantine, sticky traps, and weekly inspections of neighbouring plants are essential.

Are pesticides safe to use on tomatoes?

Insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, neem oil, and Bti are the safest options for edible and indoor tomatoes. Always read the product label and follow manufacturer's PPE, dosage, and re-entry guidance. Pesticide approvals change — confirm via the UK HSE pesticide register or US EPA before use.

Sources

Combo-specific guidance sourced from US Cooperative Extension publications (UC IPM, NC State, UMD, UMN, Penn State, CSU, UF/IFAS EDIS), Clemson HGIC fact sheets, Royal Horticultural Society guidance, and Cornell NYS IPM Biocontrol fact sheets. Reviewed by the Growli editorial team in May 2026.

Keep going

• All crops affected by spider mites
• Spider mites — full kill protocol (article)
• How to grow tomatoes — full guide
• Tomatoes plant-care reference
• Tomatoes companion plants
• All 8 garden pests covered in this guide
• Garden pest identification — complete article