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Cold hardiness & minimum temperature

Is Fuchsia 'Red Spider' (Fuchsia 'Red Spider')cold hardy? Hardiness zone & min temp

Also called Red Spider fuchsia, trailing red fuchsia.

More about fuchsia 'red spider'

About Fuchsia 'Red Spider'

Fuchsia 'Red Spider' · also called Red Spider fuchsia, trailing red fuchsia · flowering

Fuchsia 'Red Spider' is a graceful trailing cultivar with slender, spidery single flowers in shades of crimson-red with reflexed sepals, giving a delicate, airy appearance. It is particularly well suited to hanging baskets and wall baskets where its elegant pendant blooms can be appreciated close-up. Not listed as toxic by the ASPCA.

Cold limit: USDA 10-11 (frost-tender; overwinter rooted cuttings or parent plant frost-free) · RHS H2 (10-24°C)

Watch for — Flower and bud drop in heat: Slender flowers are among the first to drop in temperatures above 24°C. Move baskets to shade during heatwaves.

What fuchsia 'red spider''s hardiness rating actually means

Fuchsia 'Red Spider' is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Its RHS rating of H2 means: Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot. On the US scale that maps to USDA 10-11 (frost-tender; overwinter rooted cuttings or parent plant frost-free) — the zones where it can be left outdoors year-round.

New to these scales? The USDA hardiness zone map explained covers how the zone numbers work, and you can find your own zone with the zone finder.

Minimum temperature — and what happens below it

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Fuchsia 'Red Spider' shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

Concretely, for fuchsia 'red spider' as it gets too cold:

Can fuchsia 'red spider' go outside or overwinter — and where?

Work back from your local frost dates with the frost-date calculator: the last spring frost and first autumn frost are what really decide when fuchsia 'red spider' can be outside. US growers can check USDA zones; UK growers should use the RHS hardiness ratings, which match the H2 figure above.

Frost protection for borderline fuchsia 'red spider'

Fuchsia 'Red Spider' is right on a hardiness edge in many gardens, so if you are pushing it, these measures buy it the margin it needs:

Fuchsia 'Red Spider' hardiness — frequently asked questions

Is fuchsia 'red spider' cold hardy?

Fuchsia 'Red Spider' is half-hardy (RHS H2). It survives a mild winter outdoors in a sheltered spot, but a hard frost kills it — so in colder zones it is lifted, potted, or grown as a tender plant. Borderline outdoors. In its mild end of USDA 10-11 (frost-tender; overwinter rooted cuttings or parent plant frost-free) (and sheltered UK gardens) fuchsia 'red spider' can stay out; in colder areas it must be lifted, brought in, or treated as a frost-tender plant.

What is the minimum temperature fuchsia 'red spider' can survive?

Minimum survivable temperature is roughly about 1 to 5 °C — tolerates cold but no real frost. Fuchsia 'Red Spider' shrugs off cold nights but a real, sustained freeze will kill it.

What hardiness zone is fuchsia 'red spider'?

Fuchsia 'Red Spider' is rated USDA 10-11 (frost-tender; overwinter rooted cuttings or parent plant frost-free) and RHS H2 — Tender — survives a frost-free greenhouse or a very mild, sheltered spot.

Can fuchsia 'red spider' survive winter outside?

It can live outside year-round only in the mildest, most sheltered part of USDA 10-11 (frost-tender; overwinter rooted cuttings or parent plant frost-free) or a frost-free UK microclimate. In colder zones, grow it in a pot you can move under cover, or lift its tubers/roots and store them frost-free over winter. A south-facing wall, free-draining soil and a dry winter position can push it a full zone hardier than the books suggest.

How do I protect fuchsia 'red spider' from frost?

Mulch the crown or root zone deeply with bark, straw or leaf-mould before the first hard frost. Move container plants against a warm wall or into an unheated but frost-free porch or greenhouse. Fleece the top growth on the coldest nights, and keep it on the dry side — dry roots survive cold far better than wet ones. Lift dahlia-type tubers or tender crowns after the first light frost blackens the foliage and store them somewhere cool but frost-free.

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