Fertilising guide
How to fertilise Stoloniferous Sundew (Drosera stolonifera)— schedule & NPK
Also called Stoloniferous sundew, Leafy sundew.
More about stoloniferous sundew
About Stoloniferous Sundew
Drosera stolonifera · also called Stoloniferous sundew, Leafy sundew · flowering
Drosera stolonifera is a tuberous perennial carnivorous plant endemic to the south-west corner of Western Australia, growing in peaty, water-logged swamp heathland and Jarrah forest around Perth south to Pinjarra. It breaks dormancy in autumn, producing a horizontal stolon that inflates into a basal rosette from which 2–4 semi-erect stems arise; the most critical care fact is respecting its mandatory hot, dry summer dormancy — withhold water once leaves die back. Drosera species are not definitively listed by the ASPCA; treat as mildly-toxic for pets.
Growth habit: Winter-growing tuberous perennial; dies back completely to an underground tuber each summer.
What fertiliser stoloniferous sundew actually wants — and why
Stoloniferous Sundew has no normal roots in soil to feed — nutrients go onto the leaves or into the soak water at very dilute strength, never poured into a pot.
A very dilute balanced, bromeliad or orchid feed delivered the way the plant actually absorbs nutrients — through foliage or aerial roots, not a root ball. High concentration burns these specialised tissues fast.
For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for stoloniferous sundew: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.
How often to feed stoloniferous sundew, and which months
Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For stoloniferous sundew:
Offer small live or dried insects onto leaves every 2–3 weeks during active growth; do not apply liquid fertiliser to the soil. In practice: a quarter-strength feed added to the soak or misting water roughly monthly through the growing season (spring through early autumn), and nothing in winter rest.
The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when stoloniferous sundew is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.
What strength to mix for stoloniferous sundew
Quarter strength or weaker for stoloniferous sundew — these plants evolved on bark and air, taking trace nutrients from rain and debris, so a strong feed scorches the leaves or roots immediately.
Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water stoloniferous sundew first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the stoloniferous sundew watering schedule.
Signs you are over-feeding stoloniferous sundew
Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for stoloniferous sundew:
- Brown, scorched leaf tips or patches where feed has concentrated.
- A whitish mineral residue on leaves or mount.
- For bromeliads, rot at the base where feed has sat in the cup.
Signs you are under-feeding stoloniferous sundew
- Slow growth and pale, dull foliage over a long period.
- Few or no pups/offsets and reluctance to flower.
- A generally lacklustre plant despite good light and water.
If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full stoloniferous sundew care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.
Flushing and leaching the salts
Periodically rinse stoloniferous sundew with plain rain or distilled water to wash accumulated feed and minerals off the leaves and mount; for bromeliads, regularly empty and refill the central cup with clean water.
Organic vs synthetic feeds for stoloniferous sundew
Organic options
A very dilute seaweed feed in the soak water, or for staghorns a banana skin tucked behind the shield frond, supplies trace nutrients gently. UK: dilute seaweed; US: a token Espoma Orchid! in soak water. Weak and infrequent is the rule.
Synthetic / liquid feeds
A bromeliad, air-plant or orchid feed at quarter strength in the misting/soak water — UK: Baby Bio Orchid or an air-plant feed; US: a bromeliad/air-plant fertiliser or dilute Miracle-Gro Orchid. Never poured into soil or cup at full strength.
Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.
Fertilising stoloniferous sundew — frequently asked questions
What fertiliser does stoloniferous sundew need?
A very dilute balanced, bromeliad or orchid feed delivered the way the plant actually absorbs nutrients — through foliage or aerial roots, not a root ball. High concentration burns these specialised tissues fast. Stoloniferous Sundew has no normal roots in soil to feed — nutrients go onto the leaves or into the soak water at very dilute strength, never poured into a pot.
How often should I feed stoloniferous sundew?
Offer small live or dried insects onto leaves every 2–3 weeks during active growth; do not apply liquid fertiliser to the soil. Offer small live or dried insects onto leaves every 2–3 weeks during active growth; do not apply liquid fertiliser to the soil. In practice: a quarter-strength feed added to the soak or misting water roughly monthly through the growing season (spring through early autumn), and nothing in winter rest.
What strength of feed for stoloniferous sundew?
Quarter strength or weaker for stoloniferous sundew — these plants evolved on bark and air, taking trace nutrients from rain and debris, so a strong feed scorches the leaves or roots immediately.
What does over-feeding stoloniferous sundew look like?
Brown, scorched leaf tips or patches where feed has concentrated. A whitish mineral residue on leaves or mount. For bromeliads, rot at the base where feed has sat in the cup. Feeding stoloniferous sundew like a potted plant — a normal-strength liquid poured into soil, moss or (for bromeliads) the central cup — is the defining mistake. It burns the tissue or rots the crown; feed weak, on leaves or in soak water only.
Should I flush the soil of stoloniferous sundew?
Periodically rinse stoloniferous sundew with plain rain or distilled water to wash accumulated feed and minerals off the leaves and mount; for bromeliads, regularly empty and refill the central cup with clean water.
Keep reading
- Stoloniferous Sundew care — the full brief (light, soil, humidity, problems, pet safety)
- How often to water stoloniferous sundew — the watering schedule
- The houseplant fertiliser schedule — feeding through the year
- NPK ratio explained — what the three numbers on the bottle mean
- How to fertilise jeddeloh hemlock
- How to fertilise siberian carpet cypress
- How to fertilise dwarf golden oriental arborvitae
- All 10153 fertilising guides in the Growli library