Fertilising guide
How to fertilise Scarlet Sundew (Drosera scorpioides)— schedule & NPK
Also called Scarlet sundew, Shaggy sundew, Scorpion sundew.
More about scarlet sundew
About Scarlet Sundew
Drosera scorpioides · also called Scarlet sundew, Shaggy sundew · houseplant
Drosera scorpioides is the largest of the pygmy sundews, native to the Jarrah Forest region and southern coastal heathlands of south-west Western Australia, where it grows in sandy, nutrient-poor soils in a Mediterranean climate. It forms vivid scarlet rosettes that can grow atop stems up to 15–18 cm tall over several years, and produces pale pink flowers in winter through early spring. The critical care rule is its winter-active, summer-dormant rhythm: plants tolerate mild frosts but must not be subjected to summer heat and wet simultaneously. Drosera is not listed in the ASPCA database; classify as mildly-toxic for pets.
Growth habit: Pygmy sundew forming a compact surface rosette that may develop a short erect stem with age; winter-active, summer-dormant.
What fertiliser scarlet sundew actually wants — and why
Scarlet Sundew is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula.
For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for scarlet sundew: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.
How often to feed scarlet sundew, and which months
Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For scarlet sundew:
Propagate via gemmae rather than feeding for best vigour; during active growth a few tiny live or dried insects placed on the leaves monthly provides adequate nutrition. Treat that as monthly between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when scarlet sundew is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.
What strength to mix for scarlet sundew
Half strength is the safe default for scarlet sundew — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water scarlet sundew first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the scarlet sundew watering schedule.
Signs you are over-feeding scarlet sundew
Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for scarlet sundew:
- Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering.
- A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim.
- Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops.
- Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered.
Signs you are under-feeding scarlet sundew
- Uniformly pale or yellow-green leaves, oldest first.
- Noticeably small new leaves and stalled growth in good light and season.
- A generally tired, lacklustre look despite correct watering and light.
If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full scarlet sundew care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.
Flushing and leaching the salts
Flush the pot of scarlet sundew with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Organic vs synthetic feeds for scarlet sundew
Organic options
A diluted seaweed or worm-casting feed, or fish emulsion if you can tolerate the smell indoors. UK: Westland or Baby Bio Organic, dilute seaweed; US: Espoma Indoor! or Neptune's Harvest fish & seaweed. Slow, gentle and hard to overdo.
Synthetic / liquid feeds
A general-purpose houseplant liquid at half strength — UK: Baby Bio, Westland Houseplant Feed or Phostrogen; US: Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food or Schultz. Convenient and fast-acting; the only risk is overdoing it.
Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.
Fertilising scarlet sundew — frequently asked questions
What fertiliser does scarlet sundew need?
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula. Scarlet Sundew is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
How often should I feed scarlet sundew?
Propagate via gemmae rather than feeding for best vigour; during active growth a few tiny live or dried insects placed on the leaves monthly provides adequate nutrition. Propagate via gemmae rather than feeding for best vigour; during active growth a few tiny live or dried insects placed on the leaves monthly provides adequate nutrition. Treat that as monthly between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
What strength of feed for scarlet sundew?
Half strength is the safe default for scarlet sundew — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
What does over-feeding scarlet sundew look like?
Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering. A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim. Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops. Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered. Feeding scarlet sundew year-round on a fixed schedule, including dark winter months, is the most common mistake — it cannot use the nutrients in low light and the surplus simply burns the roots and crusts the soil.
Should I flush the soil of scarlet sundew?
Flush the pot of scarlet sundew with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Keep reading
- Scarlet Sundew care — the full brief (light, soil, humidity, problems, pet safety)
- How often to water scarlet sundew — the watering schedule
- The houseplant fertiliser schedule — feeding through the year
- NPK ratio explained — what the three numbers on the bottle mean
- How to fertilise rabbit's foot prayer plant
- How to fertilise red prayer plant
- How to fertilise fishbone prayer plant
- All 10153 fertilising guides in the Growli library