Fertilising guide

How to fertilise Nottingham medlar (Mespilus germanica 'Nottingham')— schedule & NPK

Also called Nottingham medlar, medlar 'Nottingham'.

More about nottingham medlar

About Nottingham medlar

Mespilus germanica 'Nottingham' · also called Nottingham medlar, medlar 'Nottingham' · edible

One of the oldest named medlar cultivars, 'Nottingham' is an upright small tree producing smaller-than-average fruits with exceptional, complex flavour once bletted. Hardy to USDA zone 4, self-fertile, and largely trouble-free. Fruits are harvested after the first frosts and stored indoors for several weeks until soft, sweet, and ready to eat.

Growth habit: Deciduous small tree; upright and more compact than the species; twiggy, slightly pendulous outer branches at maturity; large leathery leaves with good autumn colour

What fertiliser nottingham medlar actually wants — and why

Nottingham medlar feeds in two distinct phases — balanced to build the plant, then high-potassium the moment flowering starts to set and fill a heavy crop.

For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for nottingham medlar: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.

How often to feed nottingham medlar, and which months

Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For nottingham medlar:

Light annual feed in early spring with a balanced fruit fertiliser or well-rotted manure mulch. Medlars are not heavy feeders; excess nitrogen produces vigorous leafy growth at the expense of fruit. So: a balanced feed or compost at planting, then a high-potash liquid every 1-2 weeks from first flower through harvest across the main season (spring through early autumn).

The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when nottingham medlar is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.

What strength to mix for nottingham medlar

Follow the crop-feed label rate for nottingham medlar — these are calibrated for hungry vegetables. Consistency through fruiting matters more than strength; erratic feeding causes problems like blossom-end rot.

Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water nottingham medlar first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the nottingham medlar watering schedule.

Signs you are over-feeding nottingham medlar

Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for nottingham medlar:

Vigorous dark-green leafy growth but few flowers or fruit (excess nitrogen).
Lush foliage hiding the crop; soft growth prone to pests and disease.
Salt crust on the soil and scorched leaf edges in containers.

Signs you are under-feeding nottingham medlar

Pale, yellowing lower leaves and stunted growth.
Small fruit, poor set, and a quickly exhausted plant.
Blossom-end rot and weak cropping from erratic or insufficient feeding.

If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full nottingham medlar care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.

Flushing and leaching the salts

In containers, fertiliser salts build up fast — water nottingham medlar thoroughly so excess drains from the base each time, and flush pots with plain water every few weeks to prevent a damaging salt build-up.

Organic vs synthetic feeds for nottingham medlar

Organic options

Garden compost or well-rotted manure dug in before planting, plus a liquid comfrey or seaweed feed once fruiting starts. UK: comfrey feed or organic Tomorite; US: Espoma Tomato-tone or Neptune's Harvest. Builds soil and feeds in one.

Synthetic / liquid feeds

A balanced feed at planting then a high-potash tomato feed in fruiting — UK: Growmore at planting then Tomorite (Levington) or Phostrogen; US: a balanced 10-10-10 then Miracle-Gro Tomato or a bloom booster.

Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.

Fertilising nottingham medlar — frequently asked questions

What fertiliser does nottingham medlar need?

Balanced (even N-P-K) at planting for roots and frame, then switch to a high-potassium ("high-potash") tomato-style feed once the first flowers open — potassium is what sizes and ripens fruit, not nitrogen. Nottingham medlar feeds in two distinct phases — balanced to build the plant, then high-potassium the moment flowering starts to set and fill a heavy crop.

How often should I feed nottingham medlar?

Light annual feed in early spring with a balanced fruit fertiliser or well-rotted manure mulch. Medlars are not heavy feeders; excess nitrogen produces vigorous leafy growth at the expense of fruit. Light annual feed in early spring with a balanced fruit fertiliser or well-rotted manure mulch. Medlars are not heavy feeders; excess nitrogen produces vigorous leafy growth at the expense of fruit. So: a balanced feed or compost at planting, then a high-potash liquid every 1-2 weeks from first flower through harvest across the main season (spring through early autumn).

What strength of feed for nottingham medlar?

What does over-feeding nottingham medlar look like?

Vigorous dark-green leafy growth but few flowers or fruit (excess nitrogen). Lush foliage hiding the crop; soft growth prone to pests and disease. Salt crust on the soil and scorched leaf edges in containers. Staying on a high-nitrogen feed once nottingham medlar starts flowering is the classic error — you get a huge leafy plant and a disappointing crop. Switch to high-potash the moment flowers appear.

Should I flush the soil of nottingham medlar?