Fertilising guide
How to fertilise Lipstick Plant (Aeschynanthus radicans)— schedule & NPK
Also called Lipstick plant, Lipstick vine, Basket vine.
More about lipstick plant
About Lipstick Plant
Aeschynanthus radicans · also called Lipstick plant, Lipstick vine · flowering
The lipstick plant is a trailing tropical epiphyte from Gesneriaceae, grown for cascading stems tipped with tubular scarlet flowers that emerge from dark "lipstick-tube" buds. Its one defining need is a cool winter rest near 15°C with reduced water, which sets the buds that drive its showy summer bloom indoors.
Growth habit: Trailing, semi-woody epiphytic vine with arching, cascading stems clad in glossy, fleshy paired leaves. Tubular scarlet flowers with yellow throats push from maroon, lipstick-shaped calyx tubes in terminal clusters, mainly spring through autumn, making it a natural for hanging baskets.
What fertiliser lipstick plant actually wants — and why
Lipstick Plant is feeding to flower, not to grow leaves — it needs a higher-phosphorus / specialist bloom feed, given little and often, to set and hold its display.
A higher-phosphorus "bloom" formula or a species-specific feed (orchid food, African violet food, or a tomato-style high-potash/phosphorus liquid). A high-nitrogen general feed gives you lush leaves and almost no flowers.
For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for lipstick plant: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.
How often to feed lipstick plant, and which months
Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For lipstick plant:
Feed every couple of weeks through spring and summer with a balanced, diluted liquid houseplant fertiliser; a high-potassium or orchid feed in spring helps push flowering. Stop or greatly reduce feeding over the cool winter rest period when the plant is barely growing. The pattern that matters: feed little and often through active growth and budding — sparingly through the growing season — and ease right off during the rest period that triggers the next flush.
The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when lipstick plant is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.
What strength to mix for lipstick plant
Very dilute — quarter strength, the classic "weakly, weekly" approach for lipstick plant. These plants have fine roots that scorch easily and a steady trickle beats an occasional strong dose for flowering.
Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water lipstick plant first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the lipstick plant watering schedule.
Signs you are over-feeding lipstick plant
Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for lipstick plant:
- Lush green leaves but few or no flowers (too much nitrogen).
- Brown, scorched leaf tips and edges — a classic fine-root burn.
- White salt crust on the medium or pot, and stalled buds.
- Bud blast: buds forming then shrivelling and dropping.
Signs you are under-feeding lipstick plant
- Sparse or no flowering despite good light and the right season.
- Smaller, paler new leaves and a generally weak, tired plant.
- Flowers that are smaller or fade faster than they should.
If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full lipstick plant care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.
Flushing and leaching the salts
Specialist and bloom feeds leave salts that scorch fine roots — flush lipstick plant thoroughly with plain water until it runs clear every 4-6 weeks in the feeding season, and always between feeds for orchids.
Organic vs synthetic feeds for lipstick plant
Organic options
Gentler options exist: a dilute seaweed feed (mildly potassium-rich) or worm-casting tea. UK: Westland seaweed, or a dilute tomato feed like Tomorite for bud-formers; US: Espoma Orchid! / Violet! or Neptune's Harvest. Lower burn risk, slower response.
Synthetic / liquid feeds
A species-matched bloom feed at quarter strength — UK: Baby Bio Orchid / African Violet food, or a high-potash Tomorite/Phostrogen for budding bloomers; US: Miracle-Gro Orchid or Bloom Booster, Schultz African Violet.
Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.
Fertilising lipstick plant — frequently asked questions
What fertiliser does lipstick plant need?
A higher-phosphorus "bloom" formula or a species-specific feed (orchid food, African violet food, or a tomato-style high-potash/phosphorus liquid). A high-nitrogen general feed gives you lush leaves and almost no flowers. Lipstick Plant is feeding to flower, not to grow leaves — it needs a higher-phosphorus / specialist bloom feed, given little and often, to set and hold its display.
How often should I feed lipstick plant?
Feed every couple of weeks through spring and summer with a balanced, diluted liquid houseplant fertiliser; a high-potassium or orchid feed in spring helps push flowering. Stop or greatly reduce feeding over the cool winter rest period when the plant is barely growing. Feed every couple of weeks through spring and summer with a balanced, diluted liquid houseplant fertiliser; a high-potassium or orchid feed in spring helps push flowering. Stop or greatly reduce feeding over the cool winter rest period when the plant is barely growing. The pattern that matters: feed little and often through active growth and budding — sparingly through the growing season — and ease right off during the rest period that triggers the next flush.
What strength of feed for lipstick plant?
Very dilute — quarter strength, the classic "weakly, weekly" approach for lipstick plant. These plants have fine roots that scorch easily and a steady trickle beats an occasional strong dose for flowering.
What does over-feeding lipstick plant look like?
Lush green leaves but few or no flowers (too much nitrogen). Brown, scorched leaf tips and edges — a classic fine-root burn. White salt crust on the medium or pot, and stalled buds. Bud blast: buds forming then shrivelling and dropping. Using an ordinary high-nitrogen houseplant feed on lipstick plant is the headline mistake — you get a healthy-looking plant that simply refuses to bloom. The second is feeding through the rest period and breaking the dormancy cue it needs to set buds.
Should I flush the soil of lipstick plant?
Specialist and bloom feeds leave salts that scorch fine roots — flush lipstick plant thoroughly with plain water until it runs clear every 4-6 weeks in the feeding season, and always between feeds for orchids.
Keep reading
- Lipstick Plant care — the full brief (light, soil, humidity, problems, pet safety)
- How often to water lipstick plant — the watering schedule
- The houseplant fertiliser schedule — feeding through the year
- NPK ratio explained — what the three numbers on the bottle mean
- How to fertilise peace lily
- How to fertilise bird of paradise
- How to fertilise hoya
- All 271 fertilising guides in the Growli library