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Fertilising guide

How to fertilise Japanese Apricot (Prunus mume)— schedule & NPK

Also called Japanese Apricot, Ume, Chinese Plum.

More about japanese apricot

About Japanese Apricot

Prunus mume · also called Japanese Apricot, Ume · flowering

Prunus mume, the ume, is a deciduous flowering tree celebrated in bonsai for its fragrant pink or white blossoms that open on bare winter-to-early-spring branches. Grown outdoors in full sun, it needs a cold rest to bloom and tolerates hard pruning. Old, gnarled trunks give it exceptional character among flowering bonsai.

Growth habit: Deciduous flowering tree with an upright, often twisting habit; flowers form on the previous year's wood, so prune just after flowering to preserve next season's bloom. Develops characterfully rugged bark with age.

What fertiliser japanese apricot actually wants — and why

Japanese Apricot is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.

A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula.

For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for japanese apricot: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.

How often to feed japanese apricot, and which months

Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For japanese apricot:

Feed every two weeks from after flowering through late summer with a balanced bonsai fertiliser, shifting to lower nitrogen and higher phosphorus in late summer to set flower buds. Do not feed while dormant or in bloom. Treat that as sparingly through the growing season between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.

The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when japanese apricot is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.

What strength to mix for japanese apricot

Half strength is the safe default for japanese apricot — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.

Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water japanese apricot first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the japanese apricot watering schedule.

Signs you are over-feeding japanese apricot

Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for japanese apricot:

Signs you are under-feeding japanese apricot

If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full japanese apricot care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.

Flushing and leaching the salts

Flush the pot of japanese apricot with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.

Organic vs synthetic feeds for japanese apricot

Organic options

A diluted seaweed or worm-casting feed, or fish emulsion if you can tolerate the smell indoors. UK: Westland or Baby Bio Organic, dilute seaweed; US: Espoma Indoor! or Neptune's Harvest fish & seaweed. Slow, gentle and hard to overdo.

Synthetic / liquid feeds

A general-purpose houseplant liquid at half strength — UK: Baby Bio, Westland Houseplant Feed or Phostrogen; US: Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food or Schultz. Convenient and fast-acting; the only risk is overdoing it.

Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.

Fertilising japanese apricot — frequently asked questions

What fertiliser does japanese apricot need?

A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula. Japanese Apricot is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.

How often should I feed japanese apricot?

Feed every two weeks from after flowering through late summer with a balanced bonsai fertiliser, shifting to lower nitrogen and higher phosphorus in late summer to set flower buds. Do not feed while dormant or in bloom. Feed every two weeks from after flowering through late summer with a balanced bonsai fertiliser, shifting to lower nitrogen and higher phosphorus in late summer to set flower buds. Do not feed while dormant or in bloom. Treat that as sparingly through the growing season between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.

What strength of feed for japanese apricot?

Half strength is the safe default for japanese apricot — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.

What does over-feeding japanese apricot look like?

Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering. A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim. Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops. Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered. Feeding japanese apricot year-round on a fixed schedule, including dark winter months, is the most common mistake — it cannot use the nutrients in low light and the surplus simply burns the roots and crusts the soil.

Should I flush the soil of japanese apricot?

Flush the pot of japanese apricot with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.

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