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Fertilising guide

How to fertilise Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)— schedule & NPK

Also called mophead hydrangea, lacecap hydrangea, bigleaf hydrangea.

About Hydrangea

Hydrangea macrophylla · also called mophead hydrangea, lacecap hydrangea · flowering

Hydrangea is a deciduous shrub with large rounded (mophead) or flat (lacecap) flower heads from midsummer to autumn. Flower colour on bigleaf types depends on soil pH — acidic gives blue, alkaline gives pink. Toxic to pets.

Bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) is native to China and Japan; it is the species famous for soil-driven flower-color change in blue/pink cultivars.

Feed in spring; note that fertilizers and soil amendments shift pH and aluminium availability, so feeding choices can alter bloom color in blue/pink types.

Growth habit: Deciduous flowering shrub

Sources: rhs.org.uk, missouribotanicalgarden.org, rhs.org.uk

What fertiliser hydrangea actually wants — and why

Hydrangea is an acid-loving plant — it can only take up nutrients in acidic soil, so the feed itself matters less than using an ericaceous formula and never liming.

An ericaceous (acidic) fertiliser, formulated to keep the soil pH low and supply iron and trace elements in a form acid-loving roots can absorb. Ordinary feeds and any lime lock out iron and yellow the leaves.

For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for hydrangea: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.

How often to feed hydrangea, and which months

Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For hydrangea:

A balanced feed in early spring; an ericaceous feed and aluminium sulphate maintain blue colour on bigleafs. In practice: an ericaceous feed in spring as growth resumes, repeated through the main growing months; never apply lime, bonemeal or wood ash, which raise pH.

The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when hydrangea is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.

What strength to mix for hydrangea

Follow the ericaceous product's own rate — these are formulated for the plant, so the dilution on the label is right for hydrangea. The variable that actually matters is pH, not concentration.

Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water hydrangea first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the hydrangea watering schedule.

Signs you are over-feeding hydrangea

Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for hydrangea:

Signs you are under-feeding hydrangea

If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full hydrangea care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.

Flushing and leaching the salts

Flush hydrangea with rainwater (not hard tap water, which raises pH) if salts build up; better still, mulch with pine needles or composted bark and water with rainwater to hold the acidity.

Organic vs synthetic feeds for hydrangea

Organic options

Composted pine bark, pine-needle mulch, used coffee grounds and an organic ericaceous feed gently maintain acidity. UK: Vitax or Westland Ericaceous; US: Espoma Holly-tone or Dr. Earth Acid Lovers. Slow, soil-improving, hard to overdo.

Synthetic / liquid feeds

A liquid or granular ericaceous feed — UK: Miracle-Gro Ericaceous, Vitax or Westland; US: Miracle-Gro Acid-Loving Plant Food or Espoma Holly-tone. Pair with rainwater and an acidic mulch for it to work.

Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.

Fertilising hydrangea — frequently asked questions

What fertiliser does hydrangea need?

An ericaceous (acidic) fertiliser, formulated to keep the soil pH low and supply iron and trace elements in a form acid-loving roots can absorb. Ordinary feeds and any lime lock out iron and yellow the leaves. Hydrangea is an acid-loving plant — it can only take up nutrients in acidic soil, so the feed itself matters less than using an ericaceous formula and never liming.

How often should I feed hydrangea?

A balanced feed in early spring; an ericaceous feed and aluminium sulphate maintain blue colour on bigleafs. A balanced feed in early spring; an ericaceous feed and aluminium sulphate maintain blue colour on bigleafs. In practice: an ericaceous feed in spring as growth resumes, repeated through the main growing months; never apply lime, bonemeal or wood ash, which raise pH.

What strength of feed for hydrangea?

Follow the ericaceous product's own rate — these are formulated for the plant, so the dilution on the label is right for hydrangea. The variable that actually matters is pH, not concentration.

What does over-feeding hydrangea look like?

Brown, scorched leaf margins from too strong or too frequent a dose. White salt crust on the soil surface. Soft, lush growth that fruits or flowers poorly. Feeding hydrangea an ordinary fertiliser, or growing it in hard tap water / limey soil, is the defining mistake — it triggers lime-induced chlorosis (yellow leaves, green veins) no amount of feeding fixes until the pH comes down.

Should I flush the soil of hydrangea?

Flush hydrangea with rainwater (not hard tap water, which raises pH) if salts build up; better still, mulch with pine needles or composted bark and water with rainwater to hold the acidity.

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