Fertilising guide
How to fertilise Greater Periwinkle (Vinca major)— schedule & NPK
Also called Greater Periwinkle, Big Periwinkle, Large Periwinkle.
More about greater periwinkle
About Greater Periwinkle
Vinca major · also called Greater Periwinkle, Big Periwinkle · flowering
A vigorous, trailing evergreen groundcover with large glossy leaves and bright violet-blue flowers from spring through early summer. Faster-growing and coarser than lesser periwinkle, it excels in shaded banks, containers, and hanging baskets. Hardy to USDA zone 7 but treated as an annual in colder climates.
Growth habit: Trailing to semi-erect evergreen sub-shrub; stems root at nodes where they contact soil
What fertiliser greater periwinkle actually wants — and why
Greater Periwinkle is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula.
For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for greater periwinkle: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.
How often to feed greater periwinkle, and which months
Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For greater periwinkle:
Feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser (e.g. 10-10-10) every 4–6 weeks during the growing season (spring–early autumn). In containers, feed more frequently (every 2–3 weeks) as nutrients leach with watering. Reduce feeding in late summer to harden growth before winter. Treat that as sparingly through the growing season between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when greater periwinkle is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.
What strength to mix for greater periwinkle
Half strength is the safe default for greater periwinkle — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water greater periwinkle first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the greater periwinkle watering schedule.
Signs you are over-feeding greater periwinkle
Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for greater periwinkle:
- Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering.
- A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim.
- Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops.
- Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered.
Signs you are under-feeding greater periwinkle
- Uniformly pale or yellow-green leaves, oldest first.
- Noticeably small new leaves and stalled growth in good light and season.
- A generally tired, lacklustre look despite correct watering and light.
If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full greater periwinkle care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.
Flushing and leaching the salts
Flush the pot of greater periwinkle with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Organic vs synthetic feeds for greater periwinkle
Organic options
A diluted seaweed or worm-casting feed, or fish emulsion if you can tolerate the smell indoors. UK: Westland or Baby Bio Organic, dilute seaweed; US: Espoma Indoor! or Neptune's Harvest fish & seaweed. Slow, gentle and hard to overdo.
Synthetic / liquid feeds
A general-purpose houseplant liquid at half strength — UK: Baby Bio, Westland Houseplant Feed or Phostrogen; US: Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food or Schultz. Convenient and fast-acting; the only risk is overdoing it.
Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.
Fertilising greater periwinkle — frequently asked questions
What fertiliser does greater periwinkle need?
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula. Greater Periwinkle is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
How often should I feed greater periwinkle?
Feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser (e.g. 10-10-10) every 4–6 weeks during the growing season (spring–early autumn). In containers, feed more frequently (every 2–3 weeks) as nutrients leach with watering. Reduce feeding in late summer to harden growth before winter. Feed with a balanced liquid fertiliser (e.g. 10-10-10) every 4–6 weeks during the growing season (spring–early autumn). In containers, feed more frequently (every 2–3 weeks) as nutrients leach with watering. Reduce feeding in late summer to harden growth before winter. Treat that as sparingly through the growing season between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
What strength of feed for greater periwinkle?
Half strength is the safe default for greater periwinkle — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
What does over-feeding greater periwinkle look like?
Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering. A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim. Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops. Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered. Feeding greater periwinkle year-round on a fixed schedule, including dark winter months, is the most common mistake — it cannot use the nutrients in low light and the surplus simply burns the roots and crusts the soil.
Should I flush the soil of greater periwinkle?
Flush the pot of greater periwinkle with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Keep reading
- Greater Periwinkle care — the full brief (light, soil, humidity, problems, pet safety)
- How often to water greater periwinkle — the watering schedule
- The houseplant fertiliser schedule — feeding through the year
- NPK ratio explained — what the three numbers on the bottle mean
- How to fertilise chinese plum yew
- How to fertilise peace rose
- How to fertilise mister lincoln rose
- All 8452 fertilising guides in the Growli library