Fertilising guide
How to fertilise Dwarf Anubias (Anubias nana)— schedule & NPK
Also called Dwarf Anubias, Anubias Nana, Nana Anubias.
More about dwarf anubias
About Dwarf Anubias
Anubias nana · also called Dwarf Anubias, Anubias Nana · houseplant
Dwarf Anubias is the most popular aquarium plant globally, prized for its compact size, deep-green rounded leaves, and extreme adaptability to low light and a wide range of water parameters. A West African native, it grows on rocks and wood in shaded streams. Virtually indestructible in freshwater aquariums, paludariums, and terrariums.
Growth habit: Compact, slow-growing rhizomatous aquatic herb. Leaves are ovate to broadly elliptic, dark green, leathery, 3–7 cm long, held on short petioles. Rhizome is creeping and branching. Produces small white spathes occasionally, particularly in emersed growth.
Watch for — Very slow or stalled growth: Anubias nana is naturally slow, producing one leaf every 2–4 weeks in good conditions. Extremely slow growth (one leaf per 2+ months) may indicate very low light, low temperature below 20°C, or nutrient deficiency. Add trace element fertiliser and check temperature.
What fertiliser dwarf anubias actually wants — and why
Dwarf Anubias is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula.
For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for dwarf anubias: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.
How often to feed dwarf anubias, and which months
Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For dwarf anubias:
Very light feeder. A dilute all-in-one liquid aquarium fertiliser at half dose weekly is sufficient. CO2 injection is not required. In heavily planted aquariums, existing nutrient levels from fish bioload are often adequate without additional supplementation. Treat that as weekly between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when dwarf anubias is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.
What strength to mix for dwarf anubias
Half strength is the safe default for dwarf anubias — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water dwarf anubias first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the dwarf anubias watering schedule.
Signs you are over-feeding dwarf anubias
Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for dwarf anubias:
- Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering.
- A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim.
- Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops.
- Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered.
Signs you are under-feeding dwarf anubias
- Uniformly pale or yellow-green leaves, oldest first.
- Noticeably small new leaves and stalled growth in good light and season.
- A generally tired, lacklustre look despite correct watering and light.
If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full dwarf anubias care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.
Flushing and leaching the salts
Flush the pot of dwarf anubias with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Organic vs synthetic feeds for dwarf anubias
Organic options
A diluted seaweed or worm-casting feed, or fish emulsion if you can tolerate the smell indoors. UK: Westland or Baby Bio Organic, dilute seaweed; US: Espoma Indoor! or Neptune's Harvest fish & seaweed. Slow, gentle and hard to overdo.
Synthetic / liquid feeds
A general-purpose houseplant liquid at half strength — UK: Baby Bio, Westland Houseplant Feed or Phostrogen; US: Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food or Schultz. Convenient and fast-acting; the only risk is overdoing it.
Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.
Fertilising dwarf anubias — frequently asked questions
What fertiliser does dwarf anubias need?
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula. Dwarf Anubias is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
How often should I feed dwarf anubias?
Very light feeder. A dilute all-in-one liquid aquarium fertiliser at half dose weekly is sufficient. CO2 injection is not required. In heavily planted aquariums, existing nutrient levels from fish bioload are often adequate without additional supplementation. Very light feeder. A dilute all-in-one liquid aquarium fertiliser at half dose weekly is sufficient. CO2 injection is not required. In heavily planted aquariums, existing nutrient levels from fish bioload are often adequate without additional supplementation. Treat that as weekly between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
What strength of feed for dwarf anubias?
Half strength is the safe default for dwarf anubias — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
What does over-feeding dwarf anubias look like?
Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering. A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim. Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops. Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered. Feeding dwarf anubias year-round on a fixed schedule, including dark winter months, is the most common mistake — it cannot use the nutrients in low light and the surplus simply burns the roots and crusts the soil.
Should I flush the soil of dwarf anubias?
Flush the pot of dwarf anubias with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Keep reading
- Dwarf Anubias care — the full brief (light, soil, humidity, problems, pet safety)
- How often to water dwarf anubias — the watering schedule
- The houseplant fertiliser schedule — feeding through the year
- NPK ratio explained — what the three numbers on the bottle mean
- How to fertilise peperomia 'napoli nights' (dark form)
- How to fertilise peperomia floribunda
- How to fertilise peperomia elongata
- All 8452 fertilising guides in the Growli library