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Fertilising guide

How to fertilise Cat's-ear (Hypochaeris radicata)— schedule & NPK

Also called Cat's-ear, Hairy Cat's-ear, False Dandelion, Flatweed.

More about cat's-ear

About Cat's-ear

Hypochaeris radicata · also called Cat's-ear, Hairy Cat's-ear · flowering

Hypochaeris radicata is a rosette-forming perennial native to grasslands, lawns, and disturbed ground across the UK and Europe, producing bright yellow dandelion-like flower heads on branched, scaly scapes from June to September. It closely resembles a dandelion but is distinguished by its branched stems and hairy, wavy-edged leaves. Extremely resilient and drought-tolerant, it thrives in poor, well-drained soils in full sun with minimal care. The ASPCA lists it as toxic to horses (causing stringhalt); its toxicity to cats and dogs is unconfirmed, so a mildly-toxic classification is applied.

Growth habit: Basal-rosette perennial with a deep taproot, sending up branched flowering scapes; leaves are hairy and sinuately lobed.

What fertiliser cat's-ear actually wants — and why

Cat's-ear is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.

A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula.

For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for cat's-ear: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.

How often to feed cat's-ear, and which months

Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For cat's-ear:

No fertilising needed; enriched soils encourage excess leaf growth and allow more competitive plants to outcompete it. Treat that as sparingly through the growing season between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.

The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when cat's-ear is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.

What strength to mix for cat's-ear

Half strength is the safe default for cat's-ear — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.

Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water cat's-ear first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the cat's-ear watering schedule.

Signs you are over-feeding cat's-ear

Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for cat's-ear:

Signs you are under-feeding cat's-ear

If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full cat's-ear care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.

Flushing and leaching the salts

Flush the pot of cat's-ear with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.

Organic vs synthetic feeds for cat's-ear

Organic options

A diluted seaweed or worm-casting feed, or fish emulsion if you can tolerate the smell indoors. UK: Westland or Baby Bio Organic, dilute seaweed; US: Espoma Indoor! or Neptune's Harvest fish & seaweed. Slow, gentle and hard to overdo.

Synthetic / liquid feeds

A general-purpose houseplant liquid at half strength — UK: Baby Bio, Westland Houseplant Feed or Phostrogen; US: Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food or Schultz. Convenient and fast-acting; the only risk is overdoing it.

Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.

Fertilising cat's-ear — frequently asked questions

What fertiliser does cat's-ear need?

A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula. Cat's-ear is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.

How often should I feed cat's-ear?

No fertilising needed; enriched soils encourage excess leaf growth and allow more competitive plants to outcompete it. No fertilising needed; enriched soils encourage excess leaf growth and allow more competitive plants to outcompete it. Treat that as sparingly through the growing season between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.

What strength of feed for cat's-ear?

Half strength is the safe default for cat's-ear — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.

What does over-feeding cat's-ear look like?

Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering. A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim. Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops. Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered. Feeding cat's-ear year-round on a fixed schedule, including dark winter months, is the most common mistake — it cannot use the nutrients in low light and the surplus simply burns the roots and crusts the soil.

Should I flush the soil of cat's-ear?

Flush the pot of cat's-ear with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.

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