Fertilising guide
How to fertilise Broad-leaved Anubias (Anubias barteri)— schedule & NPK
Also called Broad-leaved Anubias, Anubias Barteri.
More about broad-leaved anubias
About Broad-leaved Anubias
Anubias barteri · also called Broad-leaved Anubias, Anubias Barteri · houseplant
Broad-leaved Anubias is a slow-growing West African aquatic or semi-aquatic herb widely used in freshwater aquariums and paludariums. Its thick, dark-green, broadly ovate leaves are extremely hardy and shade-tolerant. Rhizomes must never be buried in substrate — attach to rocks or driftwood for best results.
Growth habit: Slow-growing rhizomatous aquatic herb with thick, leathery, broadly ovate to arrow-shaped leaves on rigid petioles. New leaves emerge from the rhizome tip sequentially. Produces a small white spathe and spadix inflorescence, especially in emersed growth.
Watch for — Algae on leaves: The slow growth rate makes leaves susceptible to algae colonisation, especially green spot algae. Reduce lighting duration or intensity, introduce algae-eating fish (Otocinclus, nerite snails), and avoid excess nutrients in the water column.
What fertiliser broad-leaved anubias actually wants — and why
Broad-leaved Anubias is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula.
For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for broad-leaved anubias: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.
How often to feed broad-leaved anubias, and which months
Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For broad-leaved anubias:
Light feeder. Benefits from liquid aquarium fertiliser dosed at half the recommended rate weekly. CO2 supplementation is not necessary but slightly accelerates the slow growth rate. Root tabs near the fine roots can provide supplemental nutrition. Treat that as weekly between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when broad-leaved anubias is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.
What strength to mix for broad-leaved anubias
Half strength is the safe default for broad-leaved anubias — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water broad-leaved anubias first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the broad-leaved anubias watering schedule.
Signs you are over-feeding broad-leaved anubias
Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for broad-leaved anubias:
- Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering.
- A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim.
- Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops.
- Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered.
Signs you are under-feeding broad-leaved anubias
- Uniformly pale or yellow-green leaves, oldest first.
- Noticeably small new leaves and stalled growth in good light and season.
- A generally tired, lacklustre look despite correct watering and light.
If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full broad-leaved anubias care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.
Flushing and leaching the salts
Flush the pot of broad-leaved anubias with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Organic vs synthetic feeds for broad-leaved anubias
Organic options
A diluted seaweed or worm-casting feed, or fish emulsion if you can tolerate the smell indoors. UK: Westland or Baby Bio Organic, dilute seaweed; US: Espoma Indoor! or Neptune's Harvest fish & seaweed. Slow, gentle and hard to overdo.
Synthetic / liquid feeds
A general-purpose houseplant liquid at half strength — UK: Baby Bio, Westland Houseplant Feed or Phostrogen; US: Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food or Schultz. Convenient and fast-acting; the only risk is overdoing it.
Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.
Fertilising broad-leaved anubias — frequently asked questions
What fertiliser does broad-leaved anubias need?
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula. Broad-leaved Anubias is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
How often should I feed broad-leaved anubias?
Light feeder. Benefits from liquid aquarium fertiliser dosed at half the recommended rate weekly. CO2 supplementation is not necessary but slightly accelerates the slow growth rate. Root tabs near the fine roots can provide supplemental nutrition. Light feeder. Benefits from liquid aquarium fertiliser dosed at half the recommended rate weekly. CO2 supplementation is not necessary but slightly accelerates the slow growth rate. Root tabs near the fine roots can provide supplemental nutrition. Treat that as weekly between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
What strength of feed for broad-leaved anubias?
Half strength is the safe default for broad-leaved anubias — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
What does over-feeding broad-leaved anubias look like?
Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering. A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim. Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops. Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered. Feeding broad-leaved anubias year-round on a fixed schedule, including dark winter months, is the most common mistake — it cannot use the nutrients in low light and the surplus simply burns the roots and crusts the soil.
Should I flush the soil of broad-leaved anubias?
Flush the pot of broad-leaved anubias with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Keep reading
- Broad-leaved Anubias care — the full brief (light, soil, humidity, problems, pet safety)
- How often to water broad-leaved anubias — the watering schedule
- The houseplant fertiliser schedule — feeding through the year
- NPK ratio explained — what the three numbers on the bottle mean
- How to fertilise dischidia ruscifolia
- How to fertilise variegated string of pearls
- How to fertilise string of fishhooks
- All 8452 fertilising guides in the Growli library