Getting it to bloom

Why won't my The Governor lupine bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called The Governor lupine, The Governor lupin, Russell lupin 'The Governor' (Lupinus x regalis 'The Governor').

More about the governor lupine

About The Governor lupine

Lupinus x regalis 'The Governor' · also called The Governor lupine, The Governor lupin · flowering

The Governor is a classic Russell lupin hybrid bearing bold two-toned spikes of navy-blue and white flowers on stout stems in early summer. It is a cottage-garden stalwart, excellent for cutting, attracting bumblebees, and fixing atmospheric nitrogen. Like all lupins, it is toxic to pets and humans if ingested.

Plant type: flowering

Watch for — Lupin aphid (Macrosiphum albifrons): Large grey-green aphids can colonise flower stems and young shoots in enormous numbers in late spring, causing distorted growth and sticky honeydew. Spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil; large infestations may require systemic treatment. Ladybirds and parasitic wasps provide natural control.

The reasons the governor lupine isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming the governor lupine traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

Bulbs were not chilled long or cold enough (a problem in mild winters or with un-chilled forced bulbs).
The winter was too mild or the plant too sheltered to bank enough chill hours.
Foliage was cut down too early last year, so the bulb could not recharge for this year’s bloom.
Too little sun during the growing season to build the reserves the flower needs.
Excess nitrogen feed driving leaf at the expense of flower.

Skipping the cold period (or buying un-chilled bulbs in a mild climate). Without real vernalisation there are no flowers.

The fix — how to get the governor lupine to flower

Let it get genuinely cold. Leave the governor lupine outdoors (or in an unheated, cold spot) through winter — do not mulch heavily or shelter it from the cold it needs.
Chill the bulbs properly. Use pre-chilled bulbs, or give 12-16 weeks of cold (around 4-9 °C / 40-48 °F) before planting in mild climates.
Feed the foliage, then leave it. Let leaves grow and feed the plant after flowering; never cut foliage down until it yellows naturally.
Be patient after any move. Expect a settling year (or two to three for peony) with few or no flowers after planting or division — this is normal, not failure.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for the governor lupine and get the feeding right with the the governor lupine fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

The Governor lupine flowers in its season (typically spring for chilled bulbs) once the cold requirement is met, then dies back to recharge for next year.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Let the foliage die back fully before tidying — it is recharging the bulb. A light feed after flowering supports next year's display.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full the governor lupine care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

The Governor lupine blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my the governor lupine flower?

The Governor lupine needs a real cold period (vernalisation) to flower — the winter chill is the signal that ripens the bud inside the bulb or crown. The most common reason it is not happening: Bulbs were not chilled long or cold enough (a problem in mild winters or with un-chilled forced bulbs).

How do I make the governor lupine bloom?

Leave the governor lupine outdoors (or in an unheated, cold spot) through winter — do not mulch heavily or shelter it from the cold it needs. Use pre-chilled bulbs, or give 12-16 weeks of cold (around 4-9 °C / 40-48 °F) before planting in mild climates.

When does the governor lupine normally bloom?