Getting it to bloom

Why won't my Russian Olive bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called Russian olive, Oleaster, Silver berry, Narrow-leaved oleaster (Elaeagnus angustifolia).

More about russian olive

About Russian Olive

Elaeagnus angustifolia · also called Russian olive, Oleaster · flowering

Elaeagnus angustifolia is a deciduous, nitrogen-fixing small tree or large shrub native from western and central Asia to the Caucasus and southern Russia, widely naturalised and invasive across the arid western United States. It is supremely tough: drought-tolerant, wind-resistant, and capable of growing in saline and nutrient-poor soils. The most important care fact is that it is classified as a noxious weed in several US states, so check local regulations before planting. The ASPCA does not list it as toxic to pets.

Plant type: flowering

The reasons russian olive isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming russian olive traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.
Too much nitrogen feed, driving lush foliage at the expense of flowers (very common with general or lawn feeds).
The plant has not been deadheaded, so it stops flowering once it sets seed.
Irregular watering — drought or waterlogging at the budding stage makes buds abort.
It is still too young or was checked by a transplant and is rebuilding before flowering.

Feeding russian olive a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

The fix — how to get russian olive to flower

Maximise sun. Give russian olive the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers.
Switch the feed. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.
Deadhead regularly. Remove spent flowers often to keep it producing more rather than stopping to set seed.
Water consistently. Keep moisture even through budding and flowering — drought-then-flood swings make buds drop.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for russian olive and get the feeding right with the russian olive fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

Russian Olive flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full russian olive care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

Russian Olive blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my russian olive flower?

Russian Olive blooms on the season's growth given enough sun, warmth and the right feed — there is no cold or photoperiod trick, just good growing conditions and a bloom-leaning feed. The most common reason it is not happening: Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.

How do I make russian olive bloom?

Give russian olive the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.

When does russian olive normally bloom?