Getting it to bloom

Why won't my Rubrum Epimedium bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called red barrenwort, red epimedium (Epimedium × rubrum).

More about rubrum epimedium

About Rubrum Epimedium

Epimedium × rubrum · also called red barrenwort, red epimedium · flowering

Epimedium × rubrum is a popular, easy barrenwort grown for both flower and foliage. In spring it bears delicate crimson-and-pale-yellow spurred flowers, while the heart-shaped leaflets emerge tinted red, mature green, and colour brilliant red again in autumn. A reliable, semi-evergreen ground cover for dry shade, it spreads steadily to form weed-suppressing carpets.

Plant type: flowering

Watch for — Ragged winter foliage: Old leaves look weathered by late winter and can mask flowers. Shear them off in February before bloom stems emerge.

The reasons rubrum epimedium isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming rubrum epimedium traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.
Too much nitrogen feed, driving lush foliage at the expense of flowers (very common with general or lawn feeds).
The plant has not been deadheaded, so it stops flowering once it sets seed.
Irregular watering — drought or waterlogging at the budding stage makes buds abort.
It is still too young or was checked by a transplant and is rebuilding before flowering.

Feeding rubrum epimedium a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

The fix — how to get rubrum epimedium to flower

Maximise sun. Give rubrum epimedium the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers.
Switch the feed. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.
Deadhead regularly. Remove spent flowers often to keep it producing more rather than stopping to set seed.
Water consistently. Keep moisture even through budding and flowering — drought-then-flood swings make buds drop.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for rubrum epimedium and get the feeding right with the rubrum epimedium fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

Rubrum Epimedium flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full rubrum epimedium care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

Rubrum Epimedium blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my rubrum epimedium flower?

Rubrum Epimedium blooms on the season's growth given enough sun, warmth and the right feed — there is no cold or photoperiod trick, just good growing conditions and a bloom-leaning feed. The most common reason it is not happening: Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.

How do I make rubrum epimedium bloom?

Give rubrum epimedium the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.

When does rubrum epimedium normally bloom?