Getting it to bloom

Why won't my Malus floribunda bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called Japanese Crabapple, Showy Crabapple (Malus floribunda).

More about malus floribunda

About Malus floribunda

Malus floribunda · also called Japanese Crabapple, Showy Crabapple · flowering

Malus floribunda, the Japanese crabapple, is one of the most floriferous ornamental crabapples. Crimson buds open to pale pink then white blossom, smothering the arching branches in mid-spring. Tiny red-and-yellow fruits follow in autumn. A hardy, broad-spreading small tree with good disease resistance, it is a long-established favourite for spring display.

Plant type: flowering

The reasons malus floribunda isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming malus floribunda traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.
Too much nitrogen feed, driving lush foliage at the expense of flowers (very common with general or lawn feeds).
The plant has not been deadheaded, so it stops flowering once it sets seed.
Irregular watering — drought or waterlogging at the budding stage makes buds abort.
It is still too young or was checked by a transplant and is rebuilding before flowering.

Feeding malus floribunda a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

The fix — how to get malus floribunda to flower

Maximise sun. Give malus floribunda the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers.
Switch the feed. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.
Deadhead regularly. Remove spent flowers often to keep it producing more rather than stopping to set seed.
Water consistently. Keep moisture even through budding and flowering — drought-then-flood swings make buds drop.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for malus floribunda and get the feeding right with the malus floribunda fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

Malus floribunda flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full malus floribunda care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

Malus floribunda blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my malus floribunda flower?

Malus floribunda blooms on the season's growth given enough sun, warmth and the right feed — there is no cold or photoperiod trick, just good growing conditions and a bloom-leaning feed. The most common reason it is not happening: Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.

How do I make malus floribunda bloom?

Give malus floribunda the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.

When does malus floribunda normally bloom?