Getting it to bloom

Why won't my Lilac Sage bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called Lilac Sage, Whorled Clary, Whorled Sage (Salvia verticillata).

More about lilac sage

About Lilac Sage

Salvia verticillata · also called Lilac Sage, Whorled Clary · flowering

Salvia verticillata is a hardy herbaceous perennial native to central and southern Europe and western Asia, producing tall spires of whorled lilac-blue flowers from early to late summer. It thrives in full sun to partial shade in well-drained soil and is notably drought-tolerant once established. The key care tip is to deadhead spent flower spikes promptly to extend the flowering season significantly and prevent excessive self-seeding. Salvia is listed as non-toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA.

Plant type: flowering

Watch for — Excessive self-seeding: Plants can self-seed prolifically and become weedy if spent flower spikes are not removed before seeds ripen; deadheading also encourages a second flush of bloom.

The reasons lilac sage isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming lilac sage traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.
Too much nitrogen feed, driving lush foliage at the expense of flowers (very common with general or lawn feeds).
The plant has not been deadheaded, so it stops flowering once it sets seed.
Irregular watering — drought or waterlogging at the budding stage makes buds abort.
It is still too young or was checked by a transplant and is rebuilding before flowering.

Feeding lilac sage a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

The fix — how to get lilac sage to flower

Maximise sun. Give lilac sage the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers.
Switch the feed. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.
Deadhead regularly. Remove spent flowers often to keep it producing more rather than stopping to set seed.
Water consistently. Keep moisture even through budding and flowering — drought-then-flood swings make buds drop.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for lilac sage and get the feeding right with the lilac sage fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

Lilac Sage flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full lilac sage care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

Lilac Sage blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my lilac sage flower?

Lilac Sage blooms on the season's growth given enough sun, warmth and the right feed — there is no cold or photoperiod trick, just good growing conditions and a bloom-leaning feed. The most common reason it is not happening: Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.

How do I make lilac sage bloom?

Give lilac sage the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.

When does lilac sage normally bloom?