Getting it to bloom

Why won't my Daylily 'Wind Frills' bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called Wind Frills daylily (Hemerocallis 'Wind Frills').

More about daylily 'wind frills'

About Daylily 'Wind Frills'

Hemerocallis 'Wind Frills' · also called Wind Frills daylily · flowering

A graceful daylily cultivar with heavily ruffled, lavender-pink to orchid-toned petals and a prominent yellow-green throat. The elaborate frilling distinguishes it in summer borders. TOXIC to cats — all Hemerocallis species cause potentially fatal acute kidney failure in felines.

Plant type: flowering

Watch for — Aphids: Particularly attracted to buds; control with insecticidal soap solution or encourage aphid-eating insects in the garden.

The reasons daylily 'wind frills' isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming daylily 'wind frills' traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.
Too much nitrogen feed, driving lush foliage at the expense of flowers (very common with general or lawn feeds).
The plant has not been deadheaded, so it stops flowering once it sets seed.
Irregular watering — drought or waterlogging at the budding stage makes buds abort.
It is still too young or was checked by a transplant and is rebuilding before flowering.

Feeding daylily 'wind frills' a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

The fix — how to get daylily 'wind frills' to flower

Maximise sun. Give daylily 'wind frills' the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers.
Switch the feed. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.
Deadhead regularly. Remove spent flowers often to keep it producing more rather than stopping to set seed.
Water consistently. Keep moisture even through budding and flowering — drought-then-flood swings make buds drop.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for daylily 'wind frills' and get the feeding right with the daylily 'wind frills' fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

Daylily 'Wind Frills' flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full daylily 'wind frills' care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

Daylily 'Wind Frills' blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my daylily 'wind frills' flower?

Daylily 'Wind Frills' blooms on the season's growth given enough sun, warmth and the right feed — there is no cold or photoperiod trick, just good growing conditions and a bloom-leaning feed. The most common reason it is not happening: Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.

How do I make daylily 'wind frills' bloom?

Give daylily 'wind frills' the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.

When does daylily 'wind frills' normally bloom?