Getting it to bloom

Why won't my Athyrium filix-femina 'Frizelliae' bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called Tatting Fern, Lace Fern (Athyrium filix-femina 'Frizelliae').

More about athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae'

About Athyrium filix-femina 'Frizelliae'

Athyrium filix-femina 'Frizelliae' · also called Tatting Fern, Lace Fern · flowering

The tatting fern is a curious lady fern cultivar whose fronds are reduced to a single line of tight, bead-like green lobes strung along the midrib, resembling old-fashioned tatting lace. Deciduous and quirky, it is a conversation-piece for shaded borders and containers. It needs cool, moist, humus-rich soil and partial shade to thrive and display its novel form.

Plant type: flowering

The reasons athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.
Too much nitrogen feed, driving lush foliage at the expense of flowers (very common with general or lawn feeds).
The plant has not been deadheaded, so it stops flowering once it sets seed.
Irregular watering — drought or waterlogging at the budding stage makes buds abort.
It is still too young or was checked by a transplant and is rebuilding before flowering.

Feeding athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

The fix — how to get athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' to flower

Maximise sun. Give athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers.
Switch the feed. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.
Deadhead regularly. Remove spent flowers often to keep it producing more rather than stopping to set seed.
Water consistently. Keep moisture even through budding and flowering — drought-then-flood swings make buds drop.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' and get the feeding right with the athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

Athyrium filix-femina 'Frizelliae' flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

Athyrium filix-femina 'Frizelliae' blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' flower?

Athyrium filix-femina 'Frizelliae' blooms on the season's growth given enough sun, warmth and the right feed — there is no cold or photoperiod trick, just good growing conditions and a bloom-leaning feed. The most common reason it is not happening: Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.

How do I make athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' bloom?

Give athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.

When does athyrium filix-femina 'frizelliae' normally bloom?