Getting it to bloom

Why won't my Aeschynanthus speciosus bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called orange lipstick plant, showy lipstick vine (Aeschynanthus speciosus).

More about aeschynanthus speciosus

About Aeschynanthus speciosus

Aeschynanthus speciosus · also called orange lipstick plant, showy lipstick vine · flowering

Aeschynanthus speciosus is one of the showiest lipstick plants, producing dense terminal clusters of large orange-and-yellow tubular flowers above trailing stems of glossy green leaves. This epiphytic gesneriad blooms generously in summer given bright indirect light, warmth and humidity. Grow it in an airy mix in a hanging basket, keeping roots evenly moist but never waterlogged.

Plant type: flowering

Watch for — Bud drop before opening: Caused by dry air, inconsistent watering, or temperature swings during budding. Keep humidity up, water steadily, and avoid moving the plant once buds form.

The reasons aeschynanthus speciosus isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming aeschynanthus speciosus traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.
Too much nitrogen feed, driving lush foliage at the expense of flowers (very common with general or lawn feeds).
The plant has not been deadheaded, so it stops flowering once it sets seed.
Irregular watering — drought or waterlogging at the budding stage makes buds abort.
It is still too young or was checked by a transplant and is rebuilding before flowering.

Feeding aeschynanthus speciosus a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

The fix — how to get aeschynanthus speciosus to flower

Maximise sun. Give aeschynanthus speciosus the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers.
Switch the feed. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.
Deadhead regularly. Remove spent flowers often to keep it producing more rather than stopping to set seed.
Water consistently. Keep moisture even through budding and flowering — drought-then-flood swings make buds drop.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for aeschynanthus speciosus and get the feeding right with the aeschynanthus speciosus fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

Aeschynanthus speciosus flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full aeschynanthus speciosus care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

Aeschynanthus speciosus blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my aeschynanthus speciosus flower?

Aeschynanthus speciosus blooms on the season's growth given enough sun, warmth and the right feed — there is no cold or photoperiod trick, just good growing conditions and a bloom-leaning feed. The most common reason it is not happening: Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.

How do I make aeschynanthus speciosus bloom?

Give aeschynanthus speciosus the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.

When does aeschynanthus speciosus normally bloom?