edible gardening
How to grow raspberries — summer + autumn varieties
Grow raspberries: summer-fruiting vs autumn-fruiting types, planting, the wire support system, the make-or-break pruning rules, and harvest.
How to grow raspberries — summer + autumn varieties
Raspberries are the highest-yield soft fruit per square metre that a home gardener can grow — once you understand which type you've bought, and prune it the right way. They share a trellis logic with their close cane-fruit cousin, so if you grow both it is worth reading how to grow blackberries alongside this; gardeners building a soft-fruit corner usually add blueberries for the acid-soil contrast. Confuse the two raspberry types and you'll either get no crop (cutting summer canes in winter) or a tangled brambly mess (leaving autumn canes alone). This guide locks down the variety choice, the trellis, and the year-by-year pruning that turns 6 canes into 4 kg of fruit a season.
Track your raspberry rows: Add your cultivar to Growli and the app sets pruning reminders by type — summer-fruiting after harvest, autumn-fruiting in late winter — so you never confuse the two.
The first decision: summer or autumn?
Raspberries split into two completely different pruning groups based on which canes fruit:
Summer-fruiting (floricane)
Fruit forms on last year's canes (called floricanes). These are the traditional raspberries — one heavy crop in June/July, then the canes die back and you cut them out. Yields are higher than autumn types and the berries tend to be larger.
Autumn-fruiting (primocane)
Fruit forms on this year's canes (primocanes). Plant in spring, get fruit the same autumn. All canes get cut to the ground each winter, which makes pruning idiot-proof. The crop runs from August to first frost.
Best of both: plant one row of each. Summer-fruiting fills the June-July window; autumn-fruiting extends the season into October.
Variety selection
Summer-fruiting
- Glen Ample (AGM) — the most widely grown UK summer raspberry. Spine-free canes, large fruits, reliably heavy crops, good disease resistance. RHS Award of Garden Merit.
- Tulameen (AGM) — Canadian-bred (British Columbia), large conical sweet fruit, long picking season, vigorous. Top RHS trial performer.
- Cascade Delight — large fruit, very late summer, Phytophthora root-rot resistant — best choice for heavier soils.
- Glen Moy (AGM) — early-season, spine-free, dependable.
Autumn-fruiting
- Autumn Bliss (AGM) — the classic, early autumn cropper, sturdy canes, good aphid resistance.
- Polka (AGM) — heavy yields, large red fruits, excellent flavour, fruits well in the first year.
- Joan J (AGM) — completely spine-free, very heavy yields, large fruit, one of four newer RHS AGM autumn varieties.
- Heritage — Cornell-bred US classic (released 1969), the worldwide standard for autumn raspberries — extremely cold-hardy, widely adapted across USDA zones 4-8.
Yellow / golden raspberries
- All Gold — yellow autumn-fruiting sport of Autumn Bliss. Sweet, kids love them. Grow as you would Autumn Bliss.
Soil and site
Raspberries want:
- Full sun — 6+ hours, with afternoon shade tolerated in hot US zones.
- Well-drained soil — they hate wet feet; Phytophthora root rot kills more raspberries than anything else.
- Slightly acidic pH — 6.0-6.7 ideal. Test before planting using our soil pH guide.
- Plenty of organic matter — work in 5-7 cm (2-3 inches) of compost or well-rotted manure before planting.
- Shelter from strong wind — long whippy canes break easily.
Avoid sites where potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, or aubergines have grown in the last 3-4 years (shared Verticillium wilt susceptibility).
When and how to plant
When
- Bare-root canes: plant in dormant season — November to March in the UK, late autumn or early spring in the US (after the ground thaws).
- Container-grown canes: any frost-free month; spring or autumn root best.
Use the frost-date calculator to pick the safe planting window for your location.
How
- Prepare a trench — 30 cm (12 inches) deep, ideally running north-south so both sides of the row get sun.
- Mix compost into the backfill.
- Set canes 45 cm (18 inches) apart in a single row. Plant rows 1.8 m (6 ft) apart if you have more than one.
- Plant at the same depth they grew at the nursery — look for the dark soil mark on the cane. Deep planting suffocates the crown.
- Cut canes back to 15 cm (6 inches) immediately after planting. This forces strong new growth from the base.
- Water in well and mulch with 5-7 cm of compost or composted bark.
The wire support system
Raspberries need support — both for the canes themselves and for cleaner picking, better airflow, and easier pruning.
Post-and-wire (most common)
- Set 2.4 m (8 ft) treated wooden posts every 3 m (10 ft) along the row, driven 60 cm (24 inches) into the ground.
- Run three horizontal wires along the posts at 75 cm, 105 cm, and 165 cm above ground (30, 42, 65 inches).
- Use galvanised tensioning wire (10-12 gauge / 2.5-3.0 mm). Strain at each end.
- Tie canes to the wires with soft twine or rubber tree ties as they grow.
Double-wire system (for autumn-fruiting)
A simpler option for autumn canes: pairs of wires either side of the row at 75 cm and 150 cm, with canes growing through the middle. No tying needed — the wires hold them upright.
Watering
Raspberries are shallow-rooted and dry out fast. They need:
- Consistent moisture during fruit-fill — the 4-6 weeks before harvest. Dry spells then = small, seedy berries.
- 2.5-4 cm (1-1.5 inches) of water per week during the growing season.
- No overhead watering when fruit is ripening — wet berries get grey mould.
Drip irrigation or soaker hoses under the mulch are the cleanest setup.
Feeding
Raspberries are heavy feeders but easy to over-fertilise.
- Mulch annually with composted manure or garden compost in late winter. This supplies most of what the row needs.
- Top up with sulphate of potash in early spring (a high-potassium feed encourages fruit not foliage).
- Avoid high-nitrogen feeds after April — soft late-season growth attracts aphids and winter dies-back.
Pruning (the make-or-break rule)
Get the pruning right and raspberries will crop for 12-15 years per plot. Get it wrong and you'll cut off your crop.
Summer-fruiting (floricane)
After fruiting finishes (typically late July / early August):
- Cut the fruited canes to ground level. These are dark brown, often slightly woody — they've done their job.
- Keep the new green canes — these will fruit next year. Tie them to the wires.
- Thin to 6-8 strong new canes per metre of row (per 3 ft). Pull or cut the rest at the base.
- In late winter, tip-prune the remaining canes to 15 cm above the top wire.
Autumn-fruiting (primocane)
In late winter (February or early March):
- Cut every cane to the ground. All of them. No exceptions.
- New canes emerge in spring, grow through summer, and fruit on top from August onwards.
This is why autumn raspberries are recommended for beginners — one annual cut and you're done.
Mixed rows
Don't grow summer and autumn raspberries in the same row. The pruning rules contradict and you'll cut your summer crop by accident. Keep separate rows or beds.
Pests and problems
- Aphids — early-season green or pink aphids on new shoots, transmit raspberry mosaic virus. Strong jet of water; encourage ladybirds. See our aphids on plants guide.
- Raspberry beetle — small brown beetles whose larvae appear in ripe fruit. The single most common UK raspberry pest. Hang pheromone traps in May-July or net during flowering.
- Spotted wing drosophila — fruit fly that lays eggs in ripening berries. Pick fruit promptly; refrigerate immediately; bin damaged fruit.
- Grey mould (Botrytis) — fluffy grey fuzz on ripe fruit in damp seasons. Improve airflow; pick promptly; remove infected berries.
- Phytophthora root rot — sudden cane collapse on wet soil. Plant on raised mounds in clay; choose resistant cultivars (Cascade Delight, Latham).
For broader pest ID, see our garden pest identification hub.
Harvesting
A ripe raspberry pulls off the receptacle (white core) cleanly with no resistance — if you have to tug, leave it another day. Pick every 2-3 days during peak season.
Yields:
- Year 2: 0.5-1 kg per metre of row (1-2 lb per 3 ft)
- Mature row: 2-4 kg per metre (4-9 lb per 3 ft) per season
Raspberries don't ripen after picking. Eat within 2 days, freeze on a tray for storage (they last 12+ months frozen with no quality loss), or make jam the same day.
How long a raspberry patch lasts
A well-tended raspberry row stays productive for 10-15 years. Yields drop as virus pressure builds. When yields halve, dig up the row and start a new one in fresh ground — never replant raspberries in the same spot (soil sickness).
Related articles
- How to grow blueberries — sibling acid-soil guide
- How to grow blackberries — close relative, different pruning
- How to grow strawberries — sibling soft-fruit guide
- Frost-date calculator — your local windows
- Soil pH guide — target 6.0-6.7 for raspberries
- Aphids on plants — early-season raspberry pest
- Garden pest identification — broader pest hub
Reviewed and updated by the Growli editorial team. Founded by Justas Macys and Nojus Balčiūnas; published by YNMO LTD (UK Companies House #13293288). For questions about anything here, open Growli and ask — or email hello@getgrowli.app.
Frequently asked questions
When should I plant raspberries?
Plant bare-root canes during dormancy: November to March in the UK and late autumn or early spring in the US (after ground thaws). Container-grown plants go in any frost-free month, with spring and autumn rooting best. Use our frost-date calculator to find your safe local window.
What's the difference between summer and autumn raspberries?
Summer-fruiting raspberries (floricane) fruit on last year's canes in June-July, then those canes are cut to the ground. Autumn-fruiting raspberries (primocane) fruit on this year's canes from August to first frost, and all canes are cut down each winter. Autumn types are easier for beginners — one annual cut.
How do you prune raspberries?
It depends on type. Summer-fruiting: after fruiting in July-August, cut the fruited canes to the ground and keep the new green canes for next year, thinning to 6-8 per metre. Autumn-fruiting: in February, cut every cane to the ground. Never cut autumn canes in summer or summer canes in winter — that removes the crop.
How far apart should raspberry canes be planted?
Plant canes 45 cm (18 inches) apart in a single row. If you're growing multiple rows, space them 1.8 m (6 ft) apart for access. Keep summer-fruiting and autumn-fruiting types in separate rows so the contradicting pruning rules don't get mixed up.
Do raspberries need full sun?
Yes — raspberries crop best in 6+ hours of direct sun, with afternoon shade tolerated in hot US zones. They'll fruit in partial shade but yields drop sharply and disease pressure rises. Wind shelter helps prevent the tall canes from snapping.
How long do raspberry plants live?
A well-tended raspberry row stays productive for 10-15 years. Yields drop as soil-borne viruses accumulate. When the row halves its yield, start a new row in fresh ground — never replant raspberries where raspberries grew before (soil sickness).
Do I need a trellis or support for raspberries?
Yes — raspberry canes are 1.5-2 m (5-7 ft) tall and floppy. The standard support is post-and-wire: 2.4 m posts every 3 m, with three horizontal wires at 75 cm, 105 cm, and 165 cm. Tie canes to the wires with soft twine or rubber ties as they grow. Autumn-fruiting types tolerate a simpler double-wire system.
How does Growli help with growing raspberries?
Add your variety and Growli sets pruning reminders matched to the cultivar type — summer-fruiting gets cut after fruiting; autumn-fruiting gets cut in late winter. Photograph wilted shoots and Growli diagnoses whether it's raspberry beetle, Botrytis, or Phytophthora root rot and walks you through the fix.