Gardening glossary
Growing season
Growing season is the most practical measurement of "how much gardening time do I have." For most temperate gardeners it's defined as the number of frost-free days — the gap between the last spring frost and the first fall frost. But the fuller definition also factors in soil temperature and average daily highs above the threshold a given crop actually needs to grow.
Typical frost-free season length:
- **USDA Zone 3** (northern Minnesota, central Alaska): 90–110 days - **USDA Zone 5** (Chicago, Denver, much of New England): 140–160 days - **USDA Zone 7** (Washington DC, Portland OR, most of England): 180–210 days - **USDA Zone 9** (central Florida, coastal California): 280+ days - **USDA Zone 10–11**: effectively year-round
Why it matters: every vegetable has a **days-to-maturity** number on the seed packet, and that number assumes the plant is in active growing conditions the whole time. A 90-day tomato variety in a 110-day Zone 4 garden gives you only 20 days of buffer — one cold spring or early frost wipes out the harvest. In the same garden, a 120-day variety like an heirloom beefsteak simply won't ripen outdoors without a tunnel.
Two adjustments I always recommend in the Growli app:
1. **Soil temperature, not just air.** Tomatoes need soil ≥ 60°F to actually root and grow, which is usually 2–3 weeks after the last frost. The "frost-free" window overstates the usable season for warm-season crops. 2. **Season extension.** Row cover, low tunnels, and cold frames can add 3–5 weeks on each end. A Zone 5 gardener with a polytunnel effectively gardens in Zone 6b conditions.
Cool-season crops (lettuce, spinach, peas, brassicas, garlic) ignore the conventional growing season and grow happily in shoulder weeks where warm-season crops would stall.