Gardening glossary
Dormancy
Dormancy is a survival strategy. When environmental conditions become unfavorable — shorter days in autumn, freezing temperatures, or extended drought — many plants shift into a low-metabolism state where they conserve resources instead of producing new growth. Outdoor deciduous trees drop their leaves and pull energy back into the roots. Bulbs (tulips, garlic, lilies) die back to underground storage organs. Even houseplants that never see frost still slow down dramatically from October through February because of reduced daylength.
There are two kinds gardeners encounter most:
**True dormancy** (deciduous trees, bulbs, hardy perennials): Above-ground growth dies back entirely. The plant requires a chilling period to break dormancy and resume growth in spring. Tulips that don't get 12+ weeks below 45°F simply won't bloom.
**Quiescence** (most houseplants, succulents, citrus): Growth slows but never fully stops. Leaves stay on. The plant is awake but lazy.
The biggest dormancy mistake is overwatering. A snake plant, ZZ plant, or succulent that drank water weekly in July may only need water every 4–6 weeks in January. Roots aren't taking up moisture, so excess water sits and rots them. The same is true for fertilizer — feeding a dormant plant burns roots and doesn't accelerate growth, because the plant has nothing to do with the nutrients.
Signs your plant is dormant, not dying:
- Slowed or absent new growth, but existing leaves stay firm and green - Soil staying wet for noticeably longer - The plant tolerates drier conditions without wilting
Resume normal watering and fertilizing only when you see fresh growth at the tips, usually as days lengthen in February or March. Easing back in gradually is safer than a sudden return to a summer schedule.