Fertilising guide
How to fertilise Coffee-leaf Anubias (Anubias coffeifolia)— schedule & NPK
Also called Coffee Anubias, Coffeifolia Anubias.
More about coffee-leaf anubias
About Coffee-leaf Anubias
Anubias coffeifolia · also called Coffee Anubias, Coffeifolia Anubias · tropical
A distinctive cultivar or variety of Anubias producing deeply corrugated, dark green leaves that strikingly resemble coffee plant foliage. It is highly popular in planted aquariums for its unusual leaf texture and slow, hardy growth. Like all Anubias, it thrives when the rhizome is attached to hardscape rather than buried in substrate. As an aroid it contains calcium oxalates and is toxic to pets.
Growth habit: Slow-growing rhizomatous aquatic with deeply bullate leaves
Watch for — Yellow leaves: Indicates iron or micronutrient deficiency. Dose a liquid fertiliser containing chelated iron.
What fertiliser coffee-leaf anubias actually wants — and why
Coffee-leaf Anubias is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula.
For the language behind the three numbers on the bottle — what nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium each do — see the NPK ratio explained entry. The short version for coffee-leaf anubias: match the feed to the job the plant is doing right now, not to a generic “plant food” on the shelf.
How often to feed coffee-leaf anubias, and which months
Feeding only earns its keep while the plant is in active growth and can use the nutrients — pour feed into a dormant or low-light plant and it simply builds up as root-burning salt. For coffee-leaf anubias:
Liquid fertiliser (particularly iron and micronutrients) benefits leaf colour and health. CO2 injection is not required but marginally speeds growth. Root tabs under nearby substrate do not benefit rhizome-attached plants significantly. Treat that as sparingly through the growing season between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
The dormant-season rule matters more than the exact interval: skip feeding entirely when coffee-leaf anubias is resting. For the wider context on indoor feeding rhythms across the seasons, the houseplant fertiliser schedule walks through the year month by month.
What strength to mix for coffee-leaf anubias
Half strength is the safe default for coffee-leaf anubias — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
Feeding always goes onto already-damp soil, never dry roots — water coffee-leaf anubias first if the soil is dry, then apply the diluted feed. The companion question is when to water at all, covered in the coffee-leaf anubias watering schedule.
Signs you are over-feeding coffee-leaf anubias
Over-feeding is far more common — and more damaging — than under-feeding for most plants. The classic tells for coffee-leaf anubias:
- Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering.
- A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim.
- Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops.
- Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered.
Signs you are under-feeding coffee-leaf anubias
- Uniformly pale or yellow-green leaves, oldest first.
- Noticeably small new leaves and stalled growth in good light and season.
- A generally tired, lacklustre look despite correct watering and light.
If the symptoms point at watering, light or roots rather than nutrition, the full coffee-leaf anubias care brief covers soil, humidity and the common problems for this species.
Flushing and leaching the salts
Flush the pot of coffee-leaf anubias with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Organic vs synthetic feeds for coffee-leaf anubias
Organic options
A diluted seaweed or worm-casting feed, or fish emulsion if you can tolerate the smell indoors. UK: Westland or Baby Bio Organic, dilute seaweed; US: Espoma Indoor! or Neptune's Harvest fish & seaweed. Slow, gentle and hard to overdo.
Synthetic / liquid feeds
A general-purpose houseplant liquid at half strength — UK: Baby Bio, Westland Houseplant Feed or Phostrogen; US: Miracle-Gro Indoor Plant Food or Schultz. Convenient and fast-acting; the only risk is overdoing it.
Brand names are examples, not endorsements, and UK and US ranges differ — check the label’s own NPK and dilution rate, since formulations change.
Fertilising coffee-leaf anubias — frequently asked questions
What fertiliser does coffee-leaf anubias need?
A balanced general houseplant feed (roughly even N-P-K) is exactly right — it is grown for foliage, so steady, moderate nitrogen for healthy leaves is the goal, not a bloom or root formula. Coffee-leaf Anubias is an easy, light foliage feeder — a half-strength balanced liquid feed through the growing months keeps it green without forcing weak, sappy growth.
How often should I feed coffee-leaf anubias?
Liquid fertiliser (particularly iron and micronutrients) benefits leaf colour and health. CO2 injection is not required but marginally speeds growth. Root tabs under nearby substrate do not benefit rhizome-attached plants significantly. Liquid fertiliser (particularly iron and micronutrients) benefits leaf colour and health. CO2 injection is not required but marginally speeds growth. Root tabs under nearby substrate do not benefit rhizome-attached plants significantly. Treat that as sparingly through the growing season between spring through early autumn (roughly March to September); ease off in autumn and stop entirely in the low light of winter.
What strength of feed for coffee-leaf anubias?
Half strength is the safe default for coffee-leaf anubias — houseplant feeds are formulated strong, and the diluted dose is gentler on the roots while still ample for foliage.
What does over-feeding coffee-leaf anubias look like?
Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges with no sign of underwatering. A white, crusty salt deposit on the soil surface or pot rim. Weak, pale, stretched new growth that flops. Lower leaves yellow and drop while the soil is correctly watered. Feeding coffee-leaf anubias year-round on a fixed schedule, including dark winter months, is the most common mistake — it cannot use the nutrients in low light and the surplus simply burns the roots and crusts the soil.
Should I flush the soil of coffee-leaf anubias?
Flush the pot of coffee-leaf anubias with plain water until it runs freely from the base every couple of months in the feeding season — it washes out the fertiliser salts that cause brown tips.
Keep reading
- Coffee-leaf Anubias care — the full brief (light, soil, humidity, problems, pet safety)
- How often to water coffee-leaf anubias — the watering schedule
- The houseplant fertiliser schedule — feeding through the year
- NPK ratio explained — what the three numbers on the bottle mean
- How to fertilise odontonema tubaeforme
- How to fertilise crossandra infundibuliformis 'mango'
- How to fertilise brillantaisia subulugurica
- All 11687 fertilising guides in the Growli library