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Getting it to bloom

Why won't my Hall Totara bloom? (and how to make it flower)

Also called Mountain Totara, Hall's Totara, Thin-barked Totara (Podocarpus hallii).

More about hall totara

About Hall Totara

Podocarpus hallii · also called Mountain Totara, Hall's Totara · flowering

Hall Totara is a slow-growing New Zealand conifer found in subalpine and montane forests, featuring attractive peeling bark, narrow bronze-green leaves, and small red-fleshed seed cones. Hardy and architectural in cooler gardens. Podocarpus fruits and foliage are toxic to pets and children if ingested.

Plant type: flowering

The reasons hall totara isn't blooming

Almost every non-blooming hall totara traces back to one of these, roughly in order of how common they are:

  1. Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.
  2. Too much nitrogen feed, driving lush foliage at the expense of flowers (very common with general or lawn feeds).
  3. The plant has not been deadheaded, so it stops flowering once it sets seed.
  4. Irregular watering — drought or waterlogging at the budding stage makes buds abort.
  5. It is still too young or was checked by a transplant and is rebuilding before flowering.

Feeding hall totara a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

The fix — how to get hall totara to flower

  1. Maximise sun. Give hall totara the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers.
  2. Switch the feed. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.
  3. Deadhead regularly. Remove spent flowers often to keep it producing more rather than stopping to set seed.
  4. Water consistently. Keep moisture even through budding and flowering — drought-then-flood swings make buds drop.

Light and feeding do most of the heavy lifting here. Dial in the spot with the light guide for hall totara and get the feeding right with the hall totara fertilising schedule — the wrong feed (too much nitrogen) is one of the most common silent reasons a healthy plant makes leaves instead of flowers.

Bloom season and what to expect

Hall Totara flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

Post-bloom care so it flowers again

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

For everything else this plant needs day to day, see the full hall totara care brief and its watering schedule — a stressed, badly watered plant rarely has the energy to flower at all.

Hall Totara blooming — frequently asked questions

Why won't my hall totara flower?

Hall Totara blooms on the season's growth given enough sun, warmth and the right feed — there is no cold or photoperiod trick, just good growing conditions and a bloom-leaning feed. The most common reason it is not happening: Too little sun — most of these need full sun (or very bright light) to flower well; shade gives leaves, not blooms.

How do I make hall totara bloom?

Give hall totara the sunniest spot you have — for most bedding and fruiting plants, more direct light directly means more flowers. Move off high-nitrogen feeds and use a higher-potassium "bloom" or tomato-type feed as it comes into flower.

When does hall totara normally bloom?

Hall Totara flowers across its growing season (mostly summer) and, kept fed and deadheaded, can bloom for many weeks or right up to frost.

What should I do with hall totara after it flowers?

Deadhead, keep feeding lightly, and many will rebloom; collect seed from the best plants at the end of the season if you want to grow them again.

What is the single biggest mistake stopping hall totara flowering?

Feeding hall totara a high-nitrogen general feed and growing it in too little sun — you get a big leafy plant and almost no flowers.

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