How to get rid of aphids on tomatoes

What aphids look like on tomatoes

Clusters of green, pink, or black aphids on the youngest growth tips and the undersides of upper leaves. Curled, distorted new leaves and sticky honeydew on the foliage below the colony.

For the full set of aphids damage symptoms across host crops, see our Aphids identification page.

Why tomatoes attracts aphids

Soft, nitrogen-rich new tomato growth is ideal aphid habitat. Tomatoes are also a host for several aphid-vectored viruses (CMV, AMV, PVY), so even small infestations are worth treating early.

Severity for this combo: High — act quickly. When to act: From the first transplant out until early autumn — inspect new growth weekly, treat when populations exceed roughly 10 aphids per stem or you see leaf curl.

Step-by-step control protocol

This is the integrated-pest-management protocol — non-chemical control first, biological and organic options second, conventional sprays only as a labelled last resort. Total cycle: about three weeks for most home cases.

1. Confirm the pest. Inspect the plant — look for curled, distorted, or yellowing new growth. If unsure, photograph the affected area and open Growli for instant species ID.
2. Isolate where possible. Move container-grown tomatoes away from healthy plants. For outdoor beds, mark the affected row so you can monitor it daily.
3. Apply non-chemical control first. Strong water blast every 2-3 days to dislodge colonies
4. Add biological or organic spray. Hose the plant hard every 2-3 days, then spray insecticidal soap or neem oil every 5 days for three weeks. Plant alyssum or fennel nearby to host hoverflies and lacewings.
5. Repeat on schedule. Most aphids protocols need repeating every 5-7 days for three weeks to catch each new hatch. Most aphid species reproduce asexually in warm weather — females are born already pregnant. A new generation hatches every 7-10 days, which is why single-spray treatments fail and a 3-week protocol is needed.
6. Monitor and prevent recurrence. Inspect tomatoes weekly for the rest of the season. Reflective silver mulch under outdoor vegetables (reduces winged-aphid colonisation by 70-80 percent)

Best biological control for aphids on tomatoes

For greenhouse, polytunnel, conservatory, and indoor production on tomatoes, biological control gives long-term suppression without the residue or pollinator harm of synthetic sprays:

• Ladybird beetles (Hippodamia convergens, Coccinella septempunctata) — adult eats roughly 50 aphids/day
• Green lacewing larvae (Chrysoperla carnea) — 200+ aphids per larva before pupation
• Parasitoid wasps (Aphidius colemani, A. ervi) — standard greenhouse release
• Hoverfly larvae (Syrphidae) — encouraged by sweet alyssum and yarrow blooms

Organic spray options

Insecticidal soap (1-2 percent solution) and neem oil are the standard organic-approved sprays — apply to thorough wetness in early morning or late evening, repeat every 4-7 days. Pyrethrin is a stronger short-residue option for outbreaks. Avoid neonicotinoids on flowering plants (UK HSE rejected emergency use in January 2025; pollinator risk is documented).

Prevention going forward

• Strong water blast every 2-3 days to dislodge colonies
• Reflective silver mulch under outdoor vegetables (reduces winged-aphid colonisation by 70-80 percent)
• Pinch out and bin heavily infested shoot tips
• Avoid high-nitrogen feeds that drive soft, aphid-friendly growth
• Companion planting: alyssum, calendula, fennel as predator bankers; garlic and chives as repellents

Common mistakes when treating aphids on tomatoes

• Spraying once and walking away. Most aphid species reproduce asexually in warm weather — females are born already pregnant. A new generation hatches every 7-10 days, which is why single-spray treatments fail and a 3-week protocol is needed. A single spray misses everything that hatches afterwards — plan a 3-week protocol.
• Confusing the species. Tomatoes hosts several similar-looking pests. Confirm before treating; the wrong protocol wastes weeks. Open Growli for a confirmed ID.
• Spraying in midday heat. Insecticidal soap and horticultural oil burn leaves above 30 degC and on drought-stressed plants. Apply at dawn or dusk.
• Mixing biological control with broad-spectrum sprays. Pyrethroids and neonicotinoids wipe out predator releases. Use one strategy at a time.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get rid of aphids on tomatoes?

Hose the plant hard every 2-3 days, then spray insecticidal soap or neem oil every 5 days for three weeks. Plant alyssum or fennel nearby to host hoverflies and lacewings. Most aphid species reproduce asexually in warm weather — females are born already pregnant. A new generation hatches every 7-10 days, which is why single-spray treatments fail and a 3-week protocol is needed.

What do aphids look like on tomatoes?

Clusters of green, pink, or black aphids on the youngest growth tips and the undersides of upper leaves. Curled, distorted new leaves and sticky honeydew on the foliage below the colony.

When should I treat aphids on tomatoes?

From the first transplant out until early autumn — inspect new growth weekly, treat when populations exceed roughly 10 aphids per stem or you see leaf curl.

Why are aphids attracted to tomatoes?

Soft, nitrogen-rich new tomato growth is ideal aphid habitat. Tomatoes are also a host for several aphid-vectored viruses (CMV, AMV, PVY), so even small infestations are worth treating early.

What is the best biological control for aphids on tomatoes?

Ladybird beetles (Hippodamia convergens, Coccinella septempunctata) — adult eats roughly 50 aphids/day. Hose the plant hard every 2-3 days, then spray insecticidal soap or neem oil every 5 days for three weeks. Plant alyssum or fennel nearby to host hoverflies and lacewings.

Will aphids on tomatoes spread to other plants?

Yes. Aphids from tomatoes typically migrate to nearby susceptible hosts — see the affected-crops list on the main aphids page. Quarantine, sticky traps, and weekly inspections of neighbouring plants are essential.

Are pesticides safe to use on tomatoes?

Insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, neem oil, and Bti are the safest options for edible and indoor tomatoes. Always read the product label and follow manufacturer's PPE, dosage, and re-entry guidance. Pesticide approvals change — confirm via the UK HSE pesticide register or US EPA before use.

Sources

Combo-specific guidance sourced from US Cooperative Extension publications (UC IPM, NC State, UMD, UMN, Penn State, CSU, UF/IFAS EDIS), Clemson HGIC fact sheets, Royal Horticultural Society guidance, and Cornell NYS IPM Biocontrol fact sheets. Reviewed by the Growli editorial team in May 2026.

Keep going

• All crops affected by aphids
• Aphids — full kill protocol (article)
• How to grow tomatoes — full guide
• Tomatoes plant-care reference
• Tomatoes companion plants
• All 8 garden pests covered in this guide
• Garden pest identification — complete article