Climbing houseplants: 10 vines that need a moss pole

Climbing houseplants: 10 vines that need a moss pole

Climbing houseplants do something trailers can't: they put on dramatically larger and more architectural leaves once they're given something to climb. A pothos that trails will produce small heart-shaped leaves indefinitely. The same pothos trained up a moss pole produces leaves twice the size with deep fenestrations. The pattern repeats across every climbing aroid — adansonii, monstera deliciosa, anthurium, philodendron — because these plants evolved to read aerial root contact with tree bark as a signal to switch to "adult" mature growth. This guide is 10 climbers tested for moss-pole training, with ASPCA pet safety, leaf-size payoffs, and a section on installing and maintaining a moss pole.

Try Growli: Add your climber to Growli. The app tracks aerial root development from photos, flags when to attach a new vine section to the moss pole, and reminds you to mist the pole during dry winter weeks (essential for aerial roots to grip).

Why climbers need a moss pole

Most popular climbing houseplants come from a single tropical aroid family — the Araceae — that evolved to climb tree trunks in Central and South American rainforests. The juvenile plant on the rainforest floor has small leaves and trails. When it reaches a tree, aerial roots attach to the bark, water and nutrients flow into those roots, and the plant transitions to "mature" growth with much larger leaves designed to capture brighter canopy light.

Indoors, that same pattern applies. A moss pole — a cylinder of damp sphagnum moss wrapped around a support — mimics tree bark. Aerial roots grip the moss, the plant senses contact, and mature growth begins. Without a pole, the plant remains juvenile indefinitely — fine if you want a trailer, frustrating if you want the dramatic mature leaves climbers are famous for.

The leaf-size payoff is real. A Monstera deliciosa trailing produces small unfenestrated leaves 10-15 cm wide. Climbing a moss pole, the same plant produces leaves 40-60 cm wide with the characteristic deep splits. A pink princess philodendron trailing produces 8-10 cm leaves; climbing, 20-25 cm leaves with stronger variegation.

The 10 picks

For pet-friendly homes, the climbing options are limited to hoya and jasmine — the rest are aroids with calcium oxalate toxicity.

#1 — Monstera deliciosa

The classic climbing houseplant and the species that made moss poles a mainstream houseplant accessory. Climbs to 2-3 metres indoors over several years. Once aerial roots grip the moss pole, leaves grow from 10-15 cm (juvenile, no holes) to 40-60 cm (mature, with the characteristic deep splits and fenestrations). The leaves only develop the splits when the plant is climbing and receiving bright indirect light.

Care signal: Water when top 2-3 cm dries. Bright indirect light essential for fenestrations. Tie new growth to the moss pole at each node so aerial roots make contact.

Pet safety: TOXIC to dogs and cats per ASPCA — all monstera species contain insoluble calcium oxalates causing oral irritation, drooling, and difficulty swallowing.

See monstera care and types of monstera.

#2 — Monstera adansonii

Same Monstera genus, smaller leaves, faster grower. Adansonii (also called Swiss cheese vine, treated again at #5 for completeness) produces 15-25 cm leaves with prominent oval holes once climbing. Climbs faster than deliciosa — adds 30-50 cm of vine per year on a moss pole. The smaller leaves cost less energy to produce, which is why adansonii outgrows its larger cousin indoors.

Care signal: Water when top 2-3 cm dries. Bright indirect light. Humidity 50%+ accelerates aerial root development.

Pet safety: TOXIC to dogs and cats per ASPCA — same calcium oxalates as monstera deliciosa.

#3 — Philodendron pink princess

The collector's climber. Pink princess produces dramatic green leaves splashed with pink variegation — no two leaves the same. Climbs to 1.5-2 metres on a moss pole. Variegation is unstable; some leaves come out 80% pink (gorgeous but fragile, with poor photosynthesis) and some all green (vigorous but boring). Trim back to a node with strong variegation to maintain the pink in new growth.

Care signal: Water when top 2-3 cm dries. Bright indirect light essential for maintaining pink. Bright light without direct sun. Tie new growth to the pole.

Pet safety: TOXIC to dogs and cats per ASPCA — calcium oxalates cause severe oral irritation.

#4 — Philodendron Brasil (trained upright)

Philodendron Brasil is naturally a trailer, but when trained upright on a moss pole the leaves enlarge from 6-10 cm to 12-18 cm. The classic lime-green stripe down the centre of each leaf becomes more prominent in the larger climbing leaves. Easier and faster than monstera deliciosa for first-time climber growers.

Care signal: Water weekly when top 2-3 cm dries. Medium to bright indirect light. Pinch tips occasionally to encourage side branching from the pole.

Pet safety: TOXIC to dogs and cats per ASPCA — same calcium oxalates as the parent species.

See types of philodendron.

#5 — Swiss cheese vine (Monstera adansonii)

Same plant as #2 but listed separately because growers buy it under both names. Swiss cheese vine is the smaller-leaved Monstera adansonii — distinct from "Swiss cheese plant" which is Monstera deliciosa. The holes in adansonii leaves are prominent and decorative; growth on a pole is fast (30-50 cm per year); aerial roots grip readily.

Care signal: Water when top 2-3 cm dries. Bright indirect light. Humidity 50%+ ideal.

Pet safety: TOXIC to dogs and cats per ASPCA.

#6 — Satin pothos (Scindapsus pictus)

Not a true pothos — it's a Scindapsus, the closest cousin to Epipremnum. Satin pothos produces dusty silver-spotted matte leaves that look almost velvety. Climbs slower than other aroids but the climbing leaves enlarge from 5-7 cm (juvenile) to 12-18 cm (mature). The Exotica and Argyraeus cultivars have particularly prominent silver markings.

Care signal: Water when top 2-3 cm dries. Medium to bright indirect light. Easier than monstera in lower-light setups.

Pet safety: TOXIC to dogs and cats per ASPCA — Scindapsus is listed by ASPCA under "satin pothos" with insoluble calcium oxalates.

#7 — Anthurium clarinervium

The most premium climber on this list. Anthurium clarinervium produces 20-30 cm velvety dark-green heart-shaped leaves with prominent white veins. Climbs slowly (10-20 cm of vine per year) and stays compact even when mature. The leaves are dramatic enough that a single small plant becomes a centrepiece. Trades off speed for unmatched visual impact.

Care signal: Water when top 2-3 cm dries. Bright indirect light. Humidity 60%+ ideal (the velvet texture suffers in dry air). Tie loosely to the pole — anthurium aerial roots are softer than monstera and don't grip as firmly.

Pet safety: TOXIC to dogs and cats per ASPCA — Anthurium genus contains insoluble calcium oxalates.

#8 — Syngonium podophyllum (arrowhead vine)

Syngonium starts as a compact juvenile rosette and transitions to a vining climber once it reaches its second year of growth. On a moss pole, the leaves enlarge from 6-10 cm (juvenile arrow shape) to 15-25 cm (mature lobed shape). Pink, white, and variegated cultivars (Pink Allusion, White Butterfly, Confetti) hold their colour patterns once climbing.

Care signal: Water weekly when top 2-3 cm dries. Medium to bright indirect light. Pinch occasionally to encourage branching from the pole.

Pet safety: TOXIC to dogs and cats per ASPCA — calcium oxalates.

#9 — Hoya carnosa (wax plant) — pet-safe

The pet-safe climber. Hoya carnosa is a slow-growing tropical vine with thick succulent waxy leaves that climb a moss pole or trellis to 1-2 metres over several years. The main payoff is the flowering — clusters of star-shaped pink-and-white waxy flowers that produce sweet nectar drops. Mature plants flower reliably each year once established.

Care signal: Water every 1-2 weeks when top 2-3 cm dries. Bright indirect light (more light = more flowers). Don't move the plant once flower spurs (peduncles) form — they re-bloom from the same spurs year after year.

Pet safety: NON-TOXIC to cats and dogs per ASPCA — both Hoya kerrii and Hoya carnosa are listed safe.

See hoya care.

#10 — Jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum) — pet-safe

The flowering climber. Jasminum polyanthum (pink jasmine) produces fragrant white star-shaped flowers from late winter through spring, climbing to 1.5-2 metres on a trellis or moss pole. The scent is the main reason to grow it — one mature plant perfumes an entire room during peak bloom. Needs bright light to flower, and a cool winter (10-15°C nights) to trigger bud formation.

Care signal: Water when top 2-3 cm dries. Bright indirect light, ideally with a few hours of direct morning sun. Cool winter nights required for spring flowering.

Pet safety: NON-TOXIC to cats and dogs per ASPCA — Jasminum polyanthum is listed safe. Note: this is true jasmine; some plants sold as "jasmine" (Cestrum nocturnum, "night-blooming jasmine," and Gelsemium "Carolina jasmine") are different species and ARE toxic. Verify the botanical name before buying.

How to install a moss pole

The moss pole is the difference between a climber that climbs and one that doesn't. Setup:

1. Buy a sphagnum moss pole — pre-wrapped poles in plastic mesh are widely available in 30-90 cm lengths. For Monstera deliciosa, start with at least a 60 cm pole; the plant will need extensions every 12-18 months.

2. Push the pole deep into the pot — 5-10 cm of pole below the soil line for stability. If the pole wobbles, the climber can pull it over as it grows.

3. Wet the moss thoroughly before planting — sphagnum moss only releases water to aerial roots when it's damp. Spray the pole until water drips out the bottom, then maintain that moisture with weekly misting.

4. Tie the main stem to the pole at every node — use soft plant ties or twist ties; never wire or fishing line that can cut the stem. Tie loosely — the stem expands as it matures.

5. Mist the pole 2-3 times per week — aerial roots don't grip dry moss. In winter heating season, daily misting is often necessary. A moisture-meter probe pushed into the pole helps gauge whether re-wetting is needed.

6. Extend the pole upward when the plant reaches the top — most pre-made poles can be stacked by inserting an extension into the top of the existing pole. The plant will continue climbing without interruption.

Common climber mistakes

1. No moss pole. Without a climbing support, aroid climbers remain juvenile indefinitely — small leaves, no fenestrations, no payoff. Add a pole within the first 6 months of acquisition.

2. Dry moss pole. A bone-dry pole gives the plant nothing to grip. Aerial roots dry up and the plant gives up climbing. Mist the pole 2-3 times per week minimum.

3. Tying too tight. Wire and tight twine cut into the expanding stem as the plant matures. Use soft fabric ties or velcro plant ties, and loosen every 3-4 months.

4. Climbing in low light. Aroids only push mature climbing leaves under bright indirect light. In dim corners, they trail with juvenile leaves indefinitely regardless of whether a pole is present.

5. Buying a fully-mature climber and expecting more growth. Some imported large monsteras are sold post-mature with deeply split leaves. They look stunning but rarely push new growth at the same rate — the plant's energy is invested in maintaining existing leaves rather than adding new ones. For active climbing growth, buy a younger plant and watch it transition.

Related

• Monstera care — care deep-dive on the #1 climber
• Types of monstera — variety guide
• Types of philodendron — climbing philodendrons
• Hoya care — care deep-dive on #9 pet-safe pick
• Pet-safe houseplants — full pet-safe list
• Trailing houseplants — the alternative when you don't want a moss pole
• Pruning houseplants — managing climbers as they mature
• Humidity for houseplants — essential for aerial root grip

Toxicity classifications above are sourced from the ASPCA Toxic & Non-Toxic Plant Database.